Hotel del Casco
San Isidro, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Reviewed by
Christabelle Dilks
Built in 1892 as a rather grand summer house, Hotel del Casco still offers all the pleasures of staying in the country. The relaxed atmosphere and the elegant building’s original features sit well within a calming minimalist décor. This is a peaceful location, in the picturesque historic quarter of smart San Isidro, with its long waterfront and marina; the ideal place to return to after the city's frantic pace.
From the leafy cobbled street, wrought-iron gates glide open to reveal a grand classical colonnade. Inside is a stunning, light-filled central patio, with an original mosaic floor and a high ceiling of stained glass supported on slender Ionic columns. After your excellent breakfast, lounge here elegantly on white sofas among ferns, take tea, and plan your day. Ten of the rooms open onto this central area, with 2 more upstairs: all are high-ceilinged and grandly proportioned, with charming bathrooms. Across the gardens at the back of the main house, 8 spacious suites are similarly decorated, with views onto the pool. A charming, very civilized alternative to downtown Buenos Aires.
From the leafy cobbled street, wrought-iron gates glide open to reveal a grand classical colonnade. Inside is a stunning, light-filled central patio, with an original mosaic floor and a high ceiling of stained glass supported on slender Ionic columns. After your excellent breakfast, lounge here elegantly on white sofas among ferns, take tea, and plan your day. Ten of the rooms open onto this central area, with 2 more upstairs: all are high-ceilinged and grandly proportioned, with charming bathrooms. Across the gardens at the back of the main house, 8 spacious suites are similarly decorated, with views onto the pool. A charming, very civilized alternative to downtown Buenos Aires.
Highs
- The beautifully restored colonial house gives a rare flavour of life in Argentina's heyday
- This is elegant luxury, 1900s style: polished wooden floors, roll-top baths, antiques, fine paintings and gorgeous bed linen
- Quiet, historic San Isidro has plenty of shops and restaurants, and a pretty waterfront with a marina for sailing and windsurfing. Racecourses and golf courses are nearby
- You'll get personalised service from the friendly bilingual staff
- Easy access to Buenos Aires' favourite weekend resort of Tigre, which offers fabulous boat rides through jungly rivers
Lows
- If you really want a city hotel, you'll find San Isidro just a little too far (30 minutes) from the centre of town to make more than one trip a day. Shop in town and return for dinner, or spend the day sailing here and head into town for the nightlife
- No restaurant, though breakfast is included and a nearby eatery can deliver meals to your room
- Some noise from the cobbled street at the front of the hotel
- Rooms opening onto the central area lack privacy, and you may hear sounds from the lobby
Best time to go
Buenos Aires is most delightful in spring and autumn (October / November and April / May), but it can be impossibly hot and humid in the peak months of summer (January and February). Winter is usually pretty mild. If you're coming over January, February, July or Easter, bear in mind that these are the peak holiday periods for Argentina’s schools and all hotels and flights across the country will be heavily booked: make your plans ahead of time. San Isidro is most delightful in late summer.
Our top tips
Don't miss a trip to Tigre. A smart tourist train, Tren de la Costa, whisks you in style from San Isidro to this lovely weekend resort, 20 minutes (10km) further north. Go on a boat trip for a couple of hours, or even rent a cabin for a night on one of the many islands (you'll sleep in total peace deep in the jungly river delta). There’s also a craft market here at weekends.