Hotel Iturregi
Getaria, The Basque Country, Spain
Reviewed by
Tom Bell
It’s hard to fault this small hotel. It sits in the hills above the pretty coastal town of Getaria, with views across vineyards to the sea beyond. It’s a very private place. You potter up the hill, turn onto a track, then wait for electric gates to swing open. When you arrive, you find an old Basque farmhouse reborn as an English country house. This is a total renovation, no expense spared, a house filled with beautiful things. It’s contemporary in design, yet traditional in spirit. Bedrooms are sublime, as are the staff.
Everywhere you go, windows frame the view. There’s a lovely sitting room that opens onto a covered terrace where vast sofas wait. You’re in 20 acres of peace with gardens that roll off towards private woods. Climb some steps to one side and you find a gorgeous swimming pool with loungers under parasols and lavender in the flowerbeds. Back inside, the breakfast room opens onto a sun-trapping terrace, not a bad spot to start your day. Upstairs, 8 beautiful rooms and suites pamper you rotten. Some have sea views, others overlook the pool, and all have gorgeous bathrooms.
Everywhere you go, windows frame the view. There’s a lovely sitting room that opens onto a covered terrace where vast sofas wait. You’re in 20 acres of peace with gardens that roll off towards private woods. Climb some steps to one side and you find a gorgeous swimming pool with loungers under parasols and lavender in the flowerbeds. Back inside, the breakfast room opens onto a sun-trapping terrace, not a bad spot to start your day. Upstairs, 8 beautiful rooms and suites pamper you rotten. Some have sea views, others overlook the pool, and all have gorgeous bathrooms.
Highs
- The peaceful position in the hills, with the sea at the end of the fields
- A great base for exploring the Basque Country: Getaria, a lovely old town with a pretty beach, is only 3km away, and San Sebastián, Bilbao and Guernica are within easy reach
- The fabulous outdoor pool, set within the ruined walls of the former farm
- The airy interiors, the sumptuous bedrooms, and the heavenly bathrooms - perfect for romance and relaxation
- The covered terrace, from which you can see the lights of San Sebastián sparkling at night
Lows
- There’s no restaurant and a smart hotel like this should have one. Luckily, Getaria is easily accessible by taxi and has some excellent eateries
- The swimming pool only opens for part of the year (mid-June to mid-September)
- No twin beds, and some rooms have open-plan bathrooms; it's best suited to couples
- Rooms are expensive in high season
- You’ll need a car while you’re here
Best time to go
The Basque Country has a mild year-round climate, but it’s prone to rainfall. The upside of this, though, is a lush green landscape. Spring is the nicest time to visit - sunny days and less chance of rain. In summer, if the sun shines at weekends, the roads and beaches get busy with locals. If you’re flexible with your dates, come in the week and avoid the crowds. There’s a lovely swimming pool here, but it’s only open from mid-June to mid-September. If that matters, come then.
Our top tips
Although we didn’t take to the hills to eat with the locals, a Dutch couple staying at the hotel when we visited were lucky enough to do just that. They had eaten at Arzak in San Sebastián (3 Michelin stars), but swore blind that their meal in the hills at Bedua was their favourite. They got terribly lost and were eventually rescued by a local farmer, but it was a price worth paying: it was the best experience of their holiday.