Hotel Los Castanos
Cartajima, Ronda & the White Villages, Spain
Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
You’re in the mountains. Chestnut forest surrounds you. The postman takes October off to join the harvest, and when it’s over the village celebrates: roasted chestnuts, a suckling pig, a band in the square and all-night dancing. Cartajima, population 100, is that rarest of Andalucian finds: an untouched white village, with barely any visitors, and views to die for. Everyone lives off the land: besides chestnuts, there are olives, cherries, almonds, mushrooms and mosto wines. Narrow stepped lanes snake to the church, whose tolling bell is the only sound on a summer afternoon.
Tucked right next to it, the hotel - an amalgam of three village houses - is small, simple and comfortable; surprisingly so, perhaps, for such a tiny hamlet. There are 6 whitewashed bedrooms, a generous sitting room with fireplace and honesty bar, and home-cooked dinners if you ask. The crowning glory is a sun-soaked roof terrace with inspirational views over the wooded Genal valley to the lunar summits of the Sierra de las Nieves. It was this panorama that clinched it for owners Frank and Antje, who escaped the Berlin and Brussels rat races to start a new life here with their young kids. They're part of the village now, running the hotel - it's really more of an overgrown B&B - with a very relaxed informality. Hike out of the village on track through chestnut forests to the river, or jump in the car and head to glittering Ronda; it’s a 25-minute drive. If you want utter peace on the side of an Andalucian mountain, you've just found it.
Tucked right next to it, the hotel - an amalgam of three village houses - is small, simple and comfortable; surprisingly so, perhaps, for such a tiny hamlet. There are 6 whitewashed bedrooms, a generous sitting room with fireplace and honesty bar, and home-cooked dinners if you ask. The crowning glory is a sun-soaked roof terrace with inspirational views over the wooded Genal valley to the lunar summits of the Sierra de las Nieves. It was this panorama that clinched it for owners Frank and Antje, who escaped the Berlin and Brussels rat races to start a new life here with their young kids. They're part of the village now, running the hotel - it's really more of an overgrown B&B - with a very relaxed informality. Hike out of the village on track through chestnut forests to the river, or jump in the car and head to glittering Ronda; it’s a 25-minute drive. If you want utter peace on the side of an Andalucian mountain, you've just found it.
Highs
- The location - an idyllic village in a pristine setting, in easy striking distance of Ronda
- Fabulous hiking and outdoor activities - you can book customised packages from 3-7 days with guides and route maps
- The roof terrace is a great spot to sit and do very little - plough through a novel, perhaps, or write one
- Each bedroom has a small balcony, so you can drink in the views of village or valley
- Our home-cooked dinner, courtesy of Frank in chef mode, was excellent
Lows
- Service is more B&B than hotel-style - no reception staff or waitresses, for example
- You're up in the mountains and will need a car to explore; some might find the roads here a little hair-raising
- Don't expect a menu: dinner is whatever Frank feels like cooking (though special diets can be catered)
- No pool at the hotel, but there's a village pool up the road (July-Aug only)
- Cartajima is a seriously sleepy place: apart from fiestas (and a little Saturday merriment in the village bar), it's dead quiet
Best time to go
This is a place for all seasons. Winter is cosy and quiet; there's a fireplace, hearty food, and snow on the summits. For walks and wild flowers, come in April or May. The village Romeria festival takes place over Whitsun (usually early June), with 24 hours of merriment and procession.
Even in July-August, Cartajima - at 850m altitude - remains relatively cool. September-October are also great for hiking and general exploration, with the bonus of autumn colours and wild mushrooms in the chestnut woods. Early November sees the big chestnut festival - book ahead for this.
Even in July-August, Cartajima - at 850m altitude - remains relatively cool. September-October are also great for hiking and general exploration, with the bonus of autumn colours and wild mushrooms in the chestnut woods. Early November sees the big chestnut festival - book ahead for this.
Our top tips
Frank and Antje have big plans for the hotel, including a rooftop pool and near-zero energy consumption; but for now, it's a simple affair, to match its village setting. Bring your boots, binoculars and books to read (you can book-swop if you finish them), and prepare to relax into a slower pace of life.
Mid August sees the main village feria, lasting for 4 days and 4 nights. Locals come, as do villagers who still own property here but live down in Malaga to work. Dancing in the street starts at midnight. If you’re looking for total peace, this isn’t the time to come.
Mid August sees the main village feria, lasting for 4 days and 4 nights. Locals come, as do villagers who still own property here but live down in Malaga to work. Dancing in the street starts at midnight. If you’re looking for total peace, this isn’t the time to come.