La Casa Grande
Arcos de la Frontera, Ronda & the White Villages, Spain
Reviewed by
Tom Bell
This is an ancient town that balances impossibly on the crest of a high hill; one side is a sheer cliff. You get narrow streets, ancient alleyways and rather good views. La Casa Grande is right at the top of it all; open your window and there it is - half of Andalucia laid out before you.
You potter up to the top of the hill, park the car in front of the church, then wander along a cobbled alleyway past the 16th-century convent of Mercedarian Nuns and arrive at the house. The street is named after the family that built this house in 1729 and you can see their crest carved into the stone pediment above the front door. Inside you find a quintessentially Andalucian home: a central courtyard with an ancient well, a roof terrace where you breakfast with 20-mile views, and a clutch of delightful rooms, most of which look the right way. Tapas suppers on the roof let you make the most of that extraordinary view. Wonderful Arcos is on your doorstep, Jerez is just down the road and the beautiful mountain trails and Pueblos Blancos of the Grazalema Park are just a shake away. Don’t miss it.
You potter up to the top of the hill, park the car in front of the church, then wander along a cobbled alleyway past the 16th-century convent of Mercedarian Nuns and arrive at the house. The street is named after the family that built this house in 1729 and you can see their crest carved into the stone pediment above the front door. Inside you find a quintessentially Andalucian home: a central courtyard with an ancient well, a roof terrace where you breakfast with 20-mile views, and a clutch of delightful rooms, most of which look the right way. Tapas suppers on the roof let you make the most of that extraordinary view. Wonderful Arcos is on your doorstep, Jerez is just down the road and the beautiful mountain trails and Pueblos Blancos of the Grazalema Park are just a shake away. Don’t miss it.
Highs
- A majestic position at the top of a cliff with views that stretch for miles
- Simply-furnished, stylish rooms, that offer fantastic value for money
- We fell in love with the old town of Arcos - narrow lanes, labyrinthine alleyways, ancient bricks and mortar
- A cultured and multilingual hostess who will help unlock the secrets of this beguiling hilltop town
Lows
- There's no parking at the hotel and it could be a fair walk from where you leave your car
- You'll only find WiFi in the communal areas - this is your chance to disconnect!
- Breakfast is the only meal served, but there's a great choice of restaurants nearby
- Driving through the narrow and labyrinthine streets of the old town of Arcos can be quite hair-raising
Best time to go
You can come all year. Summer can get hot and the tiny lanes can clog with cars. Spring, early Summer, late summer and early Autumn would all be perfect.
Our top tips
The feria (fiesta) takes place at the end of September and the folk of Arcos know how to throw a party. Easter is celebrated in the usual fervent style, with parades and all-night celebrations