Reviewed by
Tom Bell
Garachico, old and pretty, is squeezed between ocean and mountain, but it’s San Roque which exhilarates; everything about this boutique hotel is special. Inside, you find luxury, chic style and peace.
The architectural elegance of this 18th-century mansion needs little embellishment. Wide cloistered walkways under heavy beamed ceilings lead to arched stone doorways. Wood, stone and steel mix easily with the terracotta-washed walls and the feel is uncluttered and airy, with a sense of timeless calm. Big wicker sofas are scattered about, primed for a day of relaxation. Lie by the pool and take the sun or walk down to the sea and bathe in volcanic rock pools. Potter back for a cup of Earl Grey on the roof terrace or grab a video from reception and head to your room. The 20 rooms are strikingly simple. You’ll find Rennie Macintosh and Mies van der Rohe chairs, Spanish modern art, super-comfortable beds and all the 21st-century gadgets you could want. Candlelit dinners by the pool offer some of the best cuisine on the island; breakfasts won't disappoint either. The kindest staff add the final touch. Perfect.
The architectural elegance of this 18th-century mansion needs little embellishment. Wide cloistered walkways under heavy beamed ceilings lead to arched stone doorways. Wood, stone and steel mix easily with the terracotta-washed walls and the feel is uncluttered and airy, with a sense of timeless calm. Big wicker sofas are scattered about, primed for a day of relaxation. Lie by the pool and take the sun or walk down to the sea and bathe in volcanic rock pools. Potter back for a cup of Earl Grey on the roof terrace or grab a video from reception and head to your room. The 20 rooms are strikingly simple. You’ll find Rennie Macintosh and Mies van der Rohe chairs, Spanish modern art, super-comfortable beds and all the 21st-century gadgets you could want. Candlelit dinners by the pool offer some of the best cuisine on the island; breakfasts won't disappoint either. The kindest staff add the final touch. Perfect.
Highs
- The exquisite traditional architecture is combined with delicate modern décor
- We found the food to be outstanding - modern and inventive, a real rarity in the Canaries
- Set in a cloistered courtyard, the swimming pool is lamp-lit at night and heated in the cooler months
- The great staff are helpful and unobtrusive; they park your car, remember your favourite wine and do an impeccable turndown service
- This is ideal for those looking to discover the real Tenerife; the north west is a world apart from the built-up resorts on the south of the island, and pretty Garachico is a true gem
Lows
- You'll need a hire car to get down here, but this is easily arranged either through the hotel or other companies on the island
- The good white-sand beaches are on the other side of the island, putting them out of range, though there are some lovely black-sand beaches within striking distance
- North Tenerife is cooler and cloudier than the south, but this also makes it more lush and green - and less crowded
- You may find the air-con a little underpowered in summer, and the rooms are a little on the dark side due to the courtyard layout
- Coffee is from a machine, and some recent guests have been underwhelmed by the food
Best time to go
Anytime of year - the average temperature is 25C. Low season prices between May and September are very attractive, though it can get very hot at that time of year. December to February is the busiest and most expensive time as it's the closest place to the UK to find warm weather in winter. February is carnival time.
Our top tips
If Garachico is draped in clouds, try driving west past Buenavista and along the spectacular lane to Punta de Tena, where the little black-pebble beach and red-striped lighthouse are usually bathed in sunshine (and wind). Don't be put off by the 'Road Closed' signs after Buenavista - they are just being cautious.
For faded colonial grandeur, stroll through La Orotava, stopping off to eat ice cream in the Botanic Gardens and buy quirky local souvenirs (lava jewellery, jars of mojo) in the handsome wooden-galleried townhouses.
For faded colonial grandeur, stroll through La Orotava, stopping off to eat ice cream in the Botanic Gardens and buy quirky local souvenirs (lava jewellery, jars of mojo) in the handsome wooden-galleried townhouses.