Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
We spent ages looking for a stylish family option in Tenerife's sunny south - dodging the crass mega-resorts and the poky casas rurales - and by the time we unearthed this, all 3 of its pretty cottages were full. Of course they were. With their spacious interiors (each comfortably sleeps 4-6 in 3 bedrooms), their playful decor, their well equipped kitchens and large shared pool, it's just what the island has been crying out for.
But that didn't stop us. After a lazy morning on Poris de Abona's empty beach with buckets and frisbees, we drove the 6km up to Arico Viejo and buzzed at La Malvasia's gate for a tantalising nosey round. A gravel track led through healthy vineyards of listan blanco (as they are known here) to the 150-year-old finca, where the busy-bee owner Martín Rodríguez de Azero y de Ponte awaited us. Expect inviting leather sofas and woodburners, clean pastel lines with a touch of old stone, the odd Oriental print or huge teak-framed mirror. Views roll down to the cobalt sea, and across cactus-specked farmland to the pretty hamlet of Arico Nuevo - home to a lovely little restaurant. Above you looms Mt. Teide, all pine forests and lunar rocks; below you a string of beaches.
But that didn't stop us. After a lazy morning on Poris de Abona's empty beach with buckets and frisbees, we drove the 6km up to Arico Viejo and buzzed at La Malvasia's gate for a tantalising nosey round. A gravel track led through healthy vineyards of listan blanco (as they are known here) to the 150-year-old finca, where the busy-bee owner Martín Rodríguez de Azero y de Ponte awaited us. Expect inviting leather sofas and woodburners, clean pastel lines with a touch of old stone, the odd Oriental print or huge teak-framed mirror. Views roll down to the cobalt sea, and across cactus-specked farmland to the pretty hamlet of Arico Nuevo - home to a lovely little restaurant. Above you looms Mt. Teide, all pine forests and lunar rocks; below you a string of beaches.
Highs
- If you want a reasonably stylish yet affordable holiday in a perma-sunny part of the world, with an uncrowded beach nearby, bingo!
- The pool and sundeck are glorious: we could imagine spending most of the day here with the kids, retreating to the covered chill-out area for drinks and shade time
- Bedrooms are good-sized, with comfy double or twin beds, ensuite bathrooms and plenty of wardrobe space, so you can really spread out
- We loved the beach of Playa de Punta beyond Poris: flat sands, sheltered waters, and we had it to ourselves for 3 hours
- It's only half an hour from the airport, and there's no shortage of flights from all around Europe
Lows
- Service is minimal: Martin doesn't live on site, and the caretaker (weekday mornings only) speaks little English
- Maintenance is not the best in the world - some peeling paint or cracked plaster here and there - but this is the Canaries
- Kitchens are rather spartan and supplies are minimal; buy basics like salt and tea towels from local shops
- Arico Viejo is not a pretty village, but Arico Nuevo (1km away) is a jewel; and both feel a world away from the purpose-built resorts just round the coast
- Be aware that you share the pool and grounds with the other guests (mostly families), and rooms aren't air conditioned
Best time to go
Tenerife is a year-round destination, but we'd advise you to avoid school holidays if you possibly can. March and November are both great times to visit, if you have free rein - warm but not overly so, and with few crowds. Summer (June-September) can get scorchingly hot, though these cottages keep nice and cool. Winter (December-February) can be cool - it's not unknown for it to snow on Mt. Teide - but the south of the island is much sunnier than the north (we had 3 days of uninterrupted sunshine in February), and the cottages have woodburning stoves for chilly evenings.
Our top tips
If you're feeling energetic, hike to the sun-bleached pumice slopes and fairy towers of Los Escorriales ('Paisaje Lunar') above Vilaflor. To reach it, drive up the TF-21 from Vilaflor towards Teide and park your car at the 2nd left hand hairpin (about 2km above Vilaflor). Here a dirt track climbs to the right (east, then north), through cool Canarian pines, past Pino Padre (keep right) and Los Llanitos. You're at 1500-1800m altitude, so be prepared for cool winds or even patches of cloud.
If hunger strikes on the way home, stop at Rincon de Roberto ('El Tasca') on the main street of Vilaflor, for upscale home cooking (soups, stews, tapas) and excellent wines by the fireside.
If hunger strikes on the way home, stop at Rincon de Roberto ('El Tasca') on the main street of Vilaflor, for upscale home cooking (soups, stews, tapas) and excellent wines by the fireside.