Reviewed by
Tom Bell
The de Ponte’s carry some weight in Garachico - they’ve been here since 1507. They built their own church in 1565, then ruled the island from 1608. This is their land down by the sea, and the dragon tree that stands in the courtyard is 400 years old.
These days they run a banana plantation. It’s all around you, with signed footpaths to guide you through it. You plunge off the main road, pass the small church, then roll down towards the ocean. The hotel is a curious mix of styles. Century-old palms soar in an ancient courtyard, and a sparkling pool lazes out back with sublime views up the mountain. Inside, the 28 rooms are simple, homely and spotless. Don’t expect designer chic; do expect cast-iron beds, floral bedcovers, colourful walls and terracotta-tiled floors. Rooms are split between the manor house, the winery and the stables. Others are half a mile up the lane in a pretty annex, offering total peace and quiet. Don’t miss the old garden, the lemon trees, the hanging ferns, the fruit and vegetable garden, the purple bougainvillea, the tennis court and the croquet pitch. A total escape, and deservedly popular with families from around Europe.
These days they run a banana plantation. It’s all around you, with signed footpaths to guide you through it. You plunge off the main road, pass the small church, then roll down towards the ocean. The hotel is a curious mix of styles. Century-old palms soar in an ancient courtyard, and a sparkling pool lazes out back with sublime views up the mountain. Inside, the 28 rooms are simple, homely and spotless. Don’t expect designer chic; do expect cast-iron beds, floral bedcovers, colourful walls and terracotta-tiled floors. Rooms are split between the manor house, the winery and the stables. Others are half a mile up the lane in a pretty annex, offering total peace and quiet. Don’t miss the old garden, the lemon trees, the hanging ferns, the fruit and vegetable garden, the purple bougainvillea, the tennis court and the croquet pitch. A total escape, and deservedly popular with families from around Europe.
Highs
- The pool: it's flanked by banana trees with views up the mountain
- The peace: you're in the middle of a banana plantation. You might be just a few miles from the (modest) resorts of Icod and Puerto de Santa Cruz, but you'd never guess
- The courtyard: stately palms, tropical flowers, vast sofas and free herbal teas on tap
- Nearby Garachico: an authentic little town that's beyond the tourist trappings
Lows
- The restaurant only offers dinner in the high season (October-April)
- Some rooms are half a mile along the lane. We thought this was rather romantic; some might not
- Service is brisk and efficient, but feels rather institutional
Best time to go
Any time of year - the average temperature is 25C - though do bear in mind that this is the coolest, cloudiest part of Tenerife: between December and March it regularly drops to 15C (and the pool is unheated). Prices are usually lower between June and October, and the sea breezes mean that it rarely gets uncomfortably hot. February is carnival time.
Our top tips
Take a moment to visit the family church, built in 1565 and still used for mass. It's made of local stone and has a pointed archway. The altar is neo-classical and the central painting - the Adoration of the King - is of Flemish origin. You’ll also find a Canarian pitch-pine pulpit and damask wall hangings. The small house next door was used by Augustine monks from 1692-1701 when their monastery was destroyed by fire.
Above the tennis court is a lovely, sheltered, semi-outdoor sitting area - a great spot to retire for afternoon tea, or lunch if you're clever enough to have your own supplies (you can use the cutlery, crockery and microwave in the dining room).
Above the tennis court is a lovely, sheltered, semi-outdoor sitting area - a great spot to retire for afternoon tea, or lunch if you're clever enough to have your own supplies (you can use the cutlery, crockery and microwave in the dining room).