Alaçati feels more like a Greek island village than a Turkish market town – a legacy of the Hellenic settlers who built the town in 1850. Many of the stone houses have been turned into the loveliest small hotels in Turkey. Incirliev is one of them.
In a quiet neighbourhood, lovingly restored by the cosmopolitan Poshor family, Incirliev was designed around a century-old fig tree that gave the hotel its name. The lemon, mandarin and mulberry trees provide the ingredients for Osman’s delicious preserves, served at breakfast in a flowering courtyard. His wife Sabahat runs a tight ship with a personal touch – fresh fruit and flowers on arrival, sweeties at bedtime. Their son Can, a music producer and international DJ, presides over proceedings during summer. The 8 spacious, breezy rooms with exposed stone walls and barn roofs mix modern comforts with hand-picked antiques. As we departed, Osman threw water at our car, a tradition said to ensure a safe trip and a speedy return. It worked: we’ll be back.
Highs
- The warmest welcome you could wish for – you’ll leave as friends with your generous, down-to-earth hosts
- The Poshor family’s love for the region is contagious and they’ll direct you to all their favourite, secret spots
- Generous breakfasts featuring the finest local produce will keep you going until teatime, when you can come back for complimentary cakes and snacks
Lows
- Views are not great – all rooms give onto the garden, but some also overlook run-down houses
- Though tastefully decorated, the rooms lacked soul when we visited, and felt somehow too pristine
- The whole town turns into a bit of a theme park in July and August
Best time to go
This is one of the few hotels in Alaçati that is open year round. Avoid July and August: Alacati’s population of 12,000 swells to over 60,000 in high season, but the crowds disperse after August 30 - a national holiday. To enjoy the fabulous beaches without the crowds, go in May, June, September or October. In winter, the three rooms with a fireplace are snug, but many restaurants and shops are closed, except on weekends. Time your stay to include a Saturday, so you don’t miss the wonderful market.
Our top tips
At dusk, climb up to the Acropolis of ancient Erythrai, a national heritage site 20km northeast of Cesme, and watch the sun set over the bay
Location
Alaçati is on the Çesme peninsula, 70km west of Izmir and just 3km from the sea. Çesme harbour is 10km away. Incirliev is in a quiet, residential part of town.
By Air
Izmir's Adnan Menderes (80km; 45-minute drive to Alacati). There are also several daily flights from Istanbul to Izmir (1hr). For details of airlines serving these routes, click on the links below.
From the airport
If you’re not driving, take a taxi from the airport to Izmir central bus terminal or to Uçkuyular bus terminal, from where it's an hour to Alaçati on the Izmir-Cesme-Seyahat bus.
By Ferry from Chios (Greece)
Between June and September there’s a daily ferry service from the Greek island of Chios to Çesme (10km away), which takes just over an hour.
By Car
Although you can walk to the nearest beach in about 20 minutes and explore Alaçati itself on foot, a car is indispensable for exploring the secluded beaches and historic sights further afield - see our car rental recommendations.
From Izmir, driving to Alaçati is a doddle on the six-lane Izmir-Çesme highway.
From Istanbul, it’s a long drive (allow a day): a two-hour high-speed ferry ride from Istanbul's Yenikapi quay to Bandirma quay, then a 340km drive through Balikesir, Manisa and Izmir to Alaçati, which takes about 5 hours.
Detailed directions will be provided when you book through i-escape.
More on getting to Turkey and getting around
Airports:
- Izmir Adnan Menderes 80.0 km ADB
Other:
- Beach 3.0 km
- Shops 0.1 km
- Restaurant 0.1 km