Terrace Houses
Sirince, Aegean Coast, Turkey
Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
This place charmed us to bits. Why? Firstly, the houses: a cluster of 19th century cottages built by the Greeks before they abandoned this pretty hill town, and restored with lashings of love and personality by Anglo-Turkish owners Charlotte and Omer. You'll find reclaimed marble basins and claw-footed tubs, grand four-poster beds and snuggly sitting rooms, cool Chinese lanterns and wrought iron chandeliers, strings of drying red peppers in the kitchens and clutches of fresh pink oleander by the bedside. These are cosy homes with character and history (which Omer can, if you want, tell you all about).
Secondly, the town: Sirince (pronounced shirinjé) is a cool, pine-ringed Eden perched 500m above (and several degrees below) stifling Seljuk and concrete Kusadasi. Admire stately crumbling townhouses, explore cool footpaths, barter for lace doilies, fruit liqueurs and painted ceramics with the gentle townsfolk - one of whom, the charming Aysel, serves silver-domed dinners and savoury breakfasts on the magical terrace. Oh, and one more reason: you're just 10km from the eastern Med's most impressive ancient city, Ephesus.
Secondly, the town: Sirince (pronounced shirinjé) is a cool, pine-ringed Eden perched 500m above (and several degrees below) stifling Seljuk and concrete Kusadasi. Admire stately crumbling townhouses, explore cool footpaths, barter for lace doilies, fruit liqueurs and painted ceramics with the gentle townsfolk - one of whom, the charming Aysel, serves silver-domed dinners and savoury breakfasts on the magical terrace. Oh, and one more reason: you're just 10km from the eastern Med's most impressive ancient city, Ephesus.
Highs
- Its proximity to Ephesus is reason alone to stop over here; but come for a week, explore the beaches of Dilek and the markets of Tire, and you will really get under the skin of this fascinating area
- Skip the self-catering: breakfast sets you up for the day, and the baked aubergines, stuffed peppers and tragana suppers round it off perfectly
- You could not feel better cared for: Omer and Charlotte offer fresh elderflower juice on arrival, all manner of sightseeing advice, and personal introductions to Sirince's most trustworthy shopkeepers
- The Clockmakers cottage can be booked exclusively or by the suite; allowing flexibility
Lows
- Some cruise-boat coaches visit Sirince for lunch and souvenir-hunting, but mornings and evenings are all yours
- The lanes round here are donkey-sized, not for the fainthearted and you can't drive to the front door
- Rooms are snug and a bit wonky, but that's part of their charm (and of the strict preservation laws)
- This is village living: no swimming pools, high-tech kitchens or TVs, but you do get WiFi, CDs and books
Best time to go
Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) are ideal for, respectively, wild flowers and leafy hillsides, and warm seas without the crowds. Summer is also quite pleasant up here (500m altitude), though you do get more day trippers. And don't rule out winter: all houses have heating.
If you do come in winter, try and coincide with the January camel wrestling competition (no kidding) in Ephesus' ancient theatre: after processing through Selcuk to musical accompaniment, pairs of ceremonially decorated male camels wrestle for a female in heat!
If you do come in winter, try and coincide with the January camel wrestling competition (no kidding) in Ephesus' ancient theatre: after processing through Selcuk to musical accompaniment, pairs of ceremonially decorated male camels wrestle for a female in heat!
Our top tips
Stay for anything from 3 days to a week, depending on whether you just want to visit Ephesus (allow the best part of a day for this, plus a day of leisure in and around Sirince), or to explore the area in depth.