Kalundewa Retreat
Dambulla Oya, Cultural Triangle, Sri Lanka
Reviewed by
Harriet Whiting
Leaving behind dusty Dambulla, the road winds its way through lush paddy fields flanked by majestic mountains, leading into a long avenue lined with pomegranate and mango trees. This is the entrance to architectural gem Kalundewa, hidden within a 100-acre retreat in Sri Lanka’s rural heart.
Reaching the reception area, a high-design structure with trees growing through the slanted roof, you begin to see how Kalundewa has created a unique harmony between modern architecture and the natural world. And a glimpse of the Bakmee Chalet between foliage exposes an almost incongruous sight: on a marshy lake, steel beams and vast glass panels glint in the dappled sunlight. Whether you approach it by raft across the water, or via a stroll through a tropical orchard, the impact is the same: a massive wow factor. The building soars high and an open split-level living area has a fabulous wraparound view.
The cosy Kambuk Chalet is also on stilts, whilst the Damunu Chalet is surrounded by a sea of paddy fields. All are full of glorious mod-cons, cavernous glass-walled bathrooms, and sleek bedrooms of exposed brick, sliding wooden doors and chunky steel fittings. But despite the modern setting, its nature that steals the show; this is a seriously peaceful place.
Reaching the reception area, a high-design structure with trees growing through the slanted roof, you begin to see how Kalundewa has created a unique harmony between modern architecture and the natural world. And a glimpse of the Bakmee Chalet between foliage exposes an almost incongruous sight: on a marshy lake, steel beams and vast glass panels glint in the dappled sunlight. Whether you approach it by raft across the water, or via a stroll through a tropical orchard, the impact is the same: a massive wow factor. The building soars high and an open split-level living area has a fabulous wraparound view.
The cosy Kambuk Chalet is also on stilts, whilst the Damunu Chalet is surrounded by a sea of paddy fields. All are full of glorious mod-cons, cavernous glass-walled bathrooms, and sleek bedrooms of exposed brick, sliding wooden doors and chunky steel fittings. But despite the modern setting, its nature that steals the show; this is a seriously peaceful place.
Highs
- Modern design with an ecoluxe vibe, in a remote and peaceful setting far from the tourist groups
- Great for honeymooners; at night the air twinkles with fireflies and we loved the special candle-lit dinners set up on the bridges over the river, on top of the water tower, or in the rice fields
- A nature lover's paradise: birds flit past in dashes of colour, frogs burp contently, and the lake splashes as a water monitor cools off
- Delicious food, much of it home-grown (rice, vegetables, fruit), and served whenever you want
- Gorgeous walks and bicycle rides through agricultural scenery
Lows
- Meals are a little on the pricey side and there are no other restaurants nearby
- This is a very peaceful place; not for party people
Best time to go
May to August are hot, dry months, ideal for a visit. February and March can be humid though are still generally nice. From April to June the wind picks up dramatically. You might want to avoid November to January, when the north-east monsoon brings rain to the area; however it is a good time to see migratory birds.
Our top tips
Bring binoculars to get a closer look at the unusual birds (and perhaps a bird-identifying book) plus lots of insect repellent as the mosquitoes seem to get everywhere, especially at dusk.
A few good reads are essential, as this is a perfect place to relax with a book, amongst the calls of nature. Those who like music should probably bring headphones, as Kalundewa is a quiet place.
A few good reads are essential, as this is a perfect place to relax with a book, amongst the calls of nature. Those who like music should probably bring headphones, as Kalundewa is a quiet place.