Sigiriya, one of Sri Lanka’s most treasured World Heritage sites, is the literal focus of this boutique hotel in the island’s Cultural Triangle region. Although the 200m-high rock is a few km away, it rears clearly above the surrounding grassy plains, and the hotel's stunning symmetry – designed by Channa Daswatta, a renowned student of Geoffrey Bawa – gives vistas of the ruined fortress from every angle.
The namesake water gardens are crafted out of former rice terraces, and the hotel's mature tree-edged setting is incredibly tranquil. The 30 reed-fringed or over-water villas are freestanding, with cutting-edge facilities; most have private plunge pools. Communal areas are smart and chic, too, with open-sided terraces for drinking and dining, and a huge swimming pool, all carefully positioned to view Sigiriya. The local heritage sites are why you come to this region, but the hotel's idyllic setting and award-winning service are more than enough reason to stay put and relax for a few days, rather than whistling through on a tour. And thanks to its wonderful spa with sauna and steam room offering treatments and holistic yoga, a gym and separate kids pool, there's plenty to keep everyone very happy. This is an extremely indulgent and uplifting retreat.
Highs
- An inspiring architectural design focused on Sigiriya’s silhouette
- Delicious Sri Lankan food, or Western options if you prefer
- The peaceful grounds teem with wildlife, particularly peacocks, lizards and monkeys, which you can spy from your terrace
- Luxurious villas are huge, with 1-2 bedrooms and separate living areas. Most have private plunge pools
- Well located for visiting Sigiriya, Dambulla's Unesco-listed cave temples and the ancient capitals of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa
Lows
- Only 2 Deluxe Villas have views of Sigiriya
- No other restaurants within easy distance; book half board
- The road leading to the resort is unpaved and can get bumpy after heavy rain
- When we visited, some pathways weren’t lit at night, but there are torches in the rooms or you can call a golf buggy
Best time to go
The Cultural Triangle tends to be drier than Sri Lanka’s southern and western regions. The rainy season is May, June, September and October; however the monsoons aren't relentless and the upside of coming in those months is less crowds touring the area’s main cultural sites (and lower rates). May’s Buddhist Wesak festival is a colourful time to visit the region as jewel-hued lanterns are strung up outside village homes, and temples festooned with lights.
Our top tips
Sigiriya is best visited first thing in the morning as it is a hot and sweaty climb. The route to the summit should also be less crowded. Buy your tickets the day before you go as this means you’ll avoid the queues that sometimes occur when the ticket office opens at 7am. For alternative views of Sigiriya, scramble up adjacent Pidurangala Rock – hardly anyone goes there.
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