Reviewed by
Emily Preece
Once, Kapsaliana’s sole purpose was to produce olive oil for a peaceful Cretan monastery - now it provides a haven for those who seek peace and an escape from the crowds. The village’s idyllic hilltop setting hasn’t changed, nor its cobblestone streets and terracotta roofs, but the Greek architect-owner has painstakingly transformed the crumbling buildings into 25 boutique rooms and suites, plus a contemporary villa. Rundown millers' cottages are now rustic-chic bedrooms with creamy stone walls, hefty wood furniture and turquoise tiled showers. The olive mill itself has been lovingly preserved with the original stone wheels and huge earthen pots. Steeped in history, Kapsaliana is a beautiful blend of past and present.
Sun-drenched terraces look across myrtle trees to the ocean; the air is fragrant with lemon and lavender. Curious children can look for lizards in the village’s nooks and crannies, while couples like to laze by the pool and drink in the intoxicating view. No one has to go far for food - the organic restaurant serves up delicious Cretan dishes using vegetables from the garden. The rugged landscape and surrounding mountain trails invite invigorating walks, and sandy beaches are a short drive away. This is an authentic taste of rural life.
Sun-drenched terraces look across myrtle trees to the ocean; the air is fragrant with lemon and lavender. Curious children can look for lizards in the village’s nooks and crannies, while couples like to laze by the pool and drink in the intoxicating view. No one has to go far for food - the organic restaurant serves up delicious Cretan dishes using vegetables from the garden. The rugged landscape and surrounding mountain trails invite invigorating walks, and sandy beaches are a short drive away. This is an authentic taste of rural life.
Highs
- The peaceful hillside location in Crete's rural north: tucked amongst olive groves with far-reaching views yet within easy reach of beaches
- Well priced for somewhere utterly unique - the Greek government cites Kapsaliana as a hotel of ‘significant cultural importance’
- Delicious Cretan food with a focus on local, seasonal ingredients
- Helpful staff will drive guests to the historic Arkadi Monastery and provide packed breakfasts for early flyers
- Simply relaxing by the beautiful pool - lunch, light snacks and drinks are available at the pool bar during the day, so there is no need to move!
Lows
- The ground-level rooms without terraces are a bit dark with not-so-private outdoor spaces
- The rooms behind the restaurant are located in the 3 new buildings, and as result lack the character of the original houses
- There are a couple of nearby tavernas but most restaurants are a drive away
- After a leisurely dinner, guests tend to go straight to bed; the atmosphere may be a bit too tranquil for some - but perfect for others
- You'll need to hire a car to go off exploring, but it's only a 10-minute drive to the nearest sandy beach
Best time to go
Spring is a particularly lovely time to visit: wildflowers bring the landscape to life and Easter celebrations give an insight into local traditions. Warm, uncrowded autumn days are the time for local harvests of grapes, raki and olive oil. Summer offers plenty of hot sunshine, ideal for lounging by the pool. Winter - aside from the lively Carnival - is a tranquil time for cosy nights by the lounge fireplace. Kapsaliana usually closes for a month in November-December.
Our top tips
The nearby Arkadi Monastery is fascinating and beautiful. It's a 14th-century symbol of Crete's independence from the Ottoman Empire, and an absolute must see. Ask staff to drop you off, then walk the 4km back to the hotel.