Reviewed by
Heidi Fuller-Love
Get-away-from-it-all fans will love this rustic hotel, which seems as firmly rooted in sylvan groves as the world’s oldest olive tree down the road in Vouves. The views over Kolimbari bay are timeless and tranquil; the rolling hills scored with hikeable footpaths and unexpected waterfalls. This is a genuine hideaway, in every sense: owned by the grandson of a doughty resistance fighter who hid allies here during the Battle of Crete. But any difficulties finding it are smoothed away like magic by the warm welcome from Giorgos and staff.
The pastel houses have been carefully renovated to expose stone walls, stunning fireplaces and ceilings held aloft by honey-coloured beams. Alongside the antiques are plenty of modern comforts: plumped up four-posters, breezy air con, flowery terraces and an on-site spa where you can chill out with face and body therapies, from detox and massage to seaweed and mud baths. And, if you can stir yourself, some of Crete's most delectable beaches - Falassarna, Balos, Elafonisi - lie within an hour's drive.
The pastel houses have been carefully renovated to expose stone walls, stunning fireplaces and ceilings held aloft by honey-coloured beams. Alongside the antiques are plenty of modern comforts: plumped up four-posters, breezy air con, flowery terraces and an on-site spa where you can chill out with face and body therapies, from detox and massage to seaweed and mud baths. And, if you can stir yourself, some of Crete's most delectable beaches - Falassarna, Balos, Elafonisi - lie within an hour's drive.
Highs
- Sweet slumbers serenaded by the sough of wind and the twitter of birds
- Friendly and informative staff handpicked from the surrounding villages, and always there to help
- A bumper crop of blurb about things to go, do and see
- Turkish bath, massages, mud baths and other delights of the spa
- The koulourakia biscuits and other fresh-baked Cretan pastries for breakfast
- A beautiful pool with a view, peacefully tucked away
Lows
- Hard to find – take our detailed directions and keep your eyes peeled for signposts amid the long spring grass
- Minimal meal choice – but if you don’t like what’s on offer you can usually order something simple, like an omelette or a Greek salad, instead
- Absence of privacy – most rooms are clustered around the reception and dining terrace; request rooms furthest from here
- You'll want a hire car: no tavernas nearby, and not much going on in the local villages
Best time to go
The hotel is open from April to October. Hikers love to come here in spring when temperatures are cooler, and the hills are alive with butterflies and flowers. June and September are good periods to visit if you’re keen on visiting Chania’s sights or lazing on the local beaches without the crowds. Folk who love a lively atmosphere should come in August when nearby Chania throbs with life and the packed hotel is full of visitors from around the globe, getting together for lively and prolonged dinner sessions.
Our top tips
Take a copy of Christopher Somerville's excellent "The Golden Step" - an account of his walk across Crete, starting at the monastery of Chrissoskalitissa. One of the steps to its door is said to be made of gold, but only the pure of mind can tell which one . If you go to Elafonisi beach, you can visit the monastery en route.