Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
Stepping inside these ex-fishermen’s cottages is like entering a Tardis. Behind their compact whitewashed façades lie interiors of astonishing space and style, where slick Scandinavian fittings sit alongside traditional Cretan furnishings: marble floors, beamed ceilings, gorgeous rugs, vibrant artwork, wooden sofas with hand-embroidered cushions. One has a private chapel converted into a sitting room, another an open-plan shower in the bedroom behind a curvy tiled wall. Excellent kitchens combine modern appliances with pretty antiques chosen by the Norwegian owner.
The family cottages are the stars, each arranged over 2 floors with sunny terraces overlooking the bobbing boats and yellow nets of Makriyialos’ fishing harbour. Two smaller apartments, one on each floor of a newer building, make excellent options for a couple. There are sandy beaches, boat trips to uninhabited islands, and rewarding hikes in the rugged limestone mountains behind.
The family cottages are the stars, each arranged over 2 floors with sunny terraces overlooking the bobbing boats and yellow nets of Makriyialos’ fishing harbour. Two smaller apartments, one on each floor of a newer building, make excellent options for a couple. There are sandy beaches, boat trips to uninhabited islands, and rewarding hikes in the rugged limestone mountains behind.
Highs
- A choice of sizes, ranging from a couple to a large family (if you want more space
- Gorgeous interiors, which marry simple Greek aesthetics with Scandinavian comforts
- Fish restaurants and waterfront tavernas right on your doorstep
- And a long sandy beach a minute's walk away
- Eastern Crete invites exploration: deep gorges, remote coves, Orthodox monasteries, Minoan palaces
Lows
- Being right on the harbour front, there's not much outdoor space, and there can be some evening hubbub in summer
- We felt the apartments are less characterful than the cottages
- There’s a preferred minimum stay of a week (but plenty to fill it with)
- Some of the coast nearby is swathed in polytunnels
Best time to go
The best periods are April-May (spring flowers, snowy peaks, cool seas) and September-October (slanting sunshine, warm seas). July and August can be extremely hot (and they are more expensive), but you have the benefit of additional boat trips and water sports. In August, most of Greece is on holiday so expect crowded beaches and bustling tavernas. Don't rule out the winter (Nov-March): this is the mildest spot in the whole of Greece, with temperatures around 15-20C, though you can expect occasional rain and wind.
Our top tips
Take a caique (fishing boat) to the uninhabited island of Koufonisi (daily trips in summer, 45 mins each way), where the ancients farmed murex shellfish for their intense purple dye; today there are scanty ruins of a theatre and temple, and a simple café on the sandy beach.