Question: how is it possible to take off from a London airport and within 6 hours be looking out at a mountain landscape of Tibetan grandeur and isolation? Answer: go to Morocco. More precisely, go to the unique hilltop kasbah-fort set at the base of Mt. Toubkal in the high Atlas, an epic journey that takes in plane, bus, taxi and a short walk. It may take just half a day but it will transport you to a different world.
Sitting on the carpeted rooftop terrace in your loaned leather ‘babouches’ (slippers) and hooded woollen ‘djelaba’ (cloak), nodding wordlessly at the smiling Berber men who bring mint tea and freshly-picked nuts, staring up at snow-dusted peaks and down on stone-coloured villages, a wave of emotions inevitably washes over you: excitement at the discoveries ahead, tranquil disconnection from the stress behind, and awe at the majesty of it all. It may not be Tibet, but, as Martin Scorsese discovered when he filmed part of his movie Kundun here, it comes pretty close.
Highs
- A magnificent setting on a remote hilltop amongst north Africa’s highest mountains; from the panoramic roof terrace you look down on 3 valleys fringed with green orchards and earth-coloured hamlets
- An ideal base for hikes of all levels in the High Atlas, from a fully inclusive, flexible and tailor-made gentle 5-night package to the 2-day ascent of Toubkal itself
- We applaud the cultural sensitivity with which it's run - it employs locals, funds the Village Association and has won a Green Globe for sustainable tourism
- It offers a variety of accommodation options, from ensuite rooms to a self-contained house for 6, perfect for a family
- Hikers have exclusive access to their Azzaden Trekking Lodge, reached by a half- or full day's hike from the kasbah - the comfiest mountain refuge imaginable, with excellent beds and ensuite bathrooms
Lows
- You have to walk the last 15 minutes (or get on a mule), but hopefully this will attract rather than deter you
- Be aware that the Dar Imlil rooms are situated in the village of Imlil, 15 minutes below the main kasbah
- Prices are distinctly European (compared with other local spots) but you do get some of the best rooftop views in north Africa, and a percentage of profits goes to local projects
- It's not licensed, so if you need a post-trek beer, you'll need to bring it with you from Marrakech
There are no specific children\'s meals, but the simple tagine and couscous dinners will suit all, and the traditional food rituals will enchant older kids. Children under 15 get 50% off meals.
- Games and books
- Mules
- Trekking - to the south-east the village of Targa Imoula (45 minutes) or to Mzig village to the west which has wonderful views (approx 1 hour)
- Camel trips
- Horse riding
- Gentle and flexible 5-night trekking package perfect for families who like a little bit of adventure
- Interacting with numerous local Berber Villages - villagers have a natural affinity with children
- Terres d\'Amanar is an eco-adventure playground in the Toubkal National Park (zip wires, climbing, riding, trekking, archery, crafts workshops, donkeys, and swimming pools)
- Mountain Hotel
- 14 rooms (kasbah) + 12 rooms (Dar Imlil)
- Restaurant and most treks include meals
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Pool
- Steam Room
- Beach Nearby
- Babysitting
- Creche / Kids Club
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
- Mountain guides
Rooms
The Kasbah offers private guestrooms with hot showers and spectacular little balconies. For something simpler and more affordable there are rooms at Dar Imlil, a convenient and comfy guesthouse down in Imlil village.
Given the choice, we'd go for a private guestroom - even the Standard Rooms are lovely, and 2 of them are tucked away in the rooftop towers. No effort has been spared to make your stay more comfortable - within the parameters of sustainability and loyalty to Berber tradition, of course. Hot showers come from a local spring heated by gas bottles brought up on muleback. Games and books have kindly been lugged up here so that you don’t have to bring them. Warm sheets and blankets cover the beds, which can be arranged as doubles or twins. The one distinctly foreign touch is a kettle with sachets of Nescafe and tea, in case you need a break from the addictive mint brew.
The more expensive Superior and Deluxe Rooms are larger and even more luxurious. Superiors benefit from a private balcony or small outside area, while the Deluxe Rooms feature French windows that lead out onto a private balcony with wonderful views. Ensuite bathrooms come with a hand-sculpted bath (and/or shower). One of the Deluxe Rooms and one of the Superior Rooms - facing south, towards the summit of Toubkal - can interconnect.
To the side of the Kasbah, and slightly lower, is the stunning Garden House, which is cleverly designed so that it can be rented as a whole (3 bedrooms) or divided into an Apartment Suite (with kitchen), Junior Suite or Superior Room, all by locking off certain rooms. Its large lounge comes with an open fireplace and picture windows leading onto a terrace overlooking the valley, while its kitchen boasts a fridge, washing machine and a microwave (it is normally booked on a B&B basis).
Set about 50 metres from the main Kasbah is the Berber Lodge. This standalone 1-bed suite is designed to look like a traditional berber house and gives you ultimate privacy. The open-plan living room and kitchenette is furnished with leather floor cushions and woven chairs, circled around a woodburner. There is a good size separate double bedroom with an ensuite shower room, but the real highlight is the balcony; the perfect spot to sip tea whilst enjoying uninterrupted views of the valley and Imlil village below.
In Imlil village, 15 minutes' walk below Kasbah Toubkal, you'll find Dar Imlil - a simpler riad with 12 bedrooms, indoor seating areas, and a large terrace and swimming pool overlooking the village. Manager Abdou is the brother of Hajj Maurice (who manages the main kasbah), so service is of a similar standard, and rooms are almost identical in size and spec - though lacking those elevated views, of course. Staff are on hand to cook your meals, offer mint tea and snacks when you return from your trek.
If you book an overnight trek through the kasbah, accommodation is either in simple mountain refuges (on the Toubkal ascent), or in the Kasbah Toubkal-owned Azzaden Trekking Lodge (on the 6-day trekking package). This comfy refuge, situated 4-7 hours above the kasbah (depending which route you choose), is a great option for those who want to get deep into the mountains but don't like the idea of roughing it. It has 4 bedrooms, each with an ensuite bathroom and heated floors; and a lounge, terrace, hammam and good food. It is staffed by the guide and muleteer who accompany you.
Features include:
- WiFi
Eating
In the Kasbah's cosy dining room, take your place at a low candle-lit table for those Berber rituals which make dining a pleasure. It's great fun (and it's tasty), but don’t expect haute cuisine. First off, rose water is poured from an elegant silver kettle onto your hands and rinsed into an equally ornate bowl. Next, round breads arrive in a vast pyramidal basket, followed by a simple flour-based harira soup eaten with a wooden spoon. The main course is usually a tagine or couscous served on a central dish - less spicy than elsewhere, perhaps to cater for western palates. After a simple dessert, the rituals close with mint tea poured from a particularly impressive height, said to settle your stomach before bed. If you’re staying for more than few nights, the menu may begin to tire, and vegetarians have limited options.
Breakfast, available early for keen hikers, is an array of local breads, dried fruit, jam, eggs and nuts. In good weather, breakfast and lunch are served outside on the stunning roof terraces - though by dinner time it's usually too chilly up at this altitude. There's also a smaller dining room and a pretty terrace at Dar Imlil, as well as a few eateries in the town.
Out of respect for Muslim traditions, the Kasbah is not licensed for alcoholic drinks so, if you fancy a tipple after your exertions, you are welcome to bring some wine or beer with you from Marrakech.
Features include:
- Breakfast
- Communal dining
- Dinner by arrangement
- Kids' meals
- Lunch by arrangement
- Restaurants nearby
- Vegetarian options
Activities
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Cycling
- Hiking
- Private guided tours
- Traditional cultures
- Trekking
- Wildlife
Best Time to go
Each season has its merits. January to early March sees occasional snowfall and ski touring parties. In April, the scenery is at its lushest, but the higher slopes will still have snow, and can be chilly. May-September are prime months for trekking, and in July-August it is a great way to escape the infernal heat of Marrakech. October can be busy with half-term schoolgroups. November to early December are colder, often dry and a good option if you don't mind the shorter days.
Our Top Tips
Location
Kasbah du Toubkal lies deep in the High Atlas Mountains, about 1.5 hours from Marrakech. It sits above the village of Imlil, perched on a ridge at 1,800m altitude, overlooking 3 valleys carved out of mountains which rise to 4,000m. The highest of these, Jbel Toubkal (4167m), is the tallest peak in Northern Africa.
By Air
Fly into Marrakech (65km), a hub for international flights. Click on the link below for a list of airlines.
From Marrakech City / Airport
It is an hour and quarter's drive from Marrakech to Imlil. Those staying at Dar Imlil will then have a walk of a couple of minutes to their room. For those in Kasbah Toubkal, it is a 15-minute walk up through walnut groves with mules carrying your luggage.
A one-way trip from Marrakech to Imlil in a taxi costs from EUR50 depending on your haggling skills. It is probably better to book a transfer through the Kasbah (see Rates), as they will then make sure the mules await you on arrival in Imlil. If you want to hire a car see our car rental recommendations. Drivers can take ordinary cars as far as Imlil, except after heavy rain when a 4WD is necessary.
Otherwise frequent local buses run from Marrakech to Asni (1.5 hrs) from where you can get an occasional bus (or taxi) to Imlil which takes approx 15 minutes.
From southern Morocco
If driving from Ouarzazate or Taroudant allow about 6 hours.
Detailed directions will provided when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Morocco and getting around
Airports:
- Marrakech Menara 65.0 km RAK
Other:
- Beach 250.0 km
- Shops 1.0 km
- Restaurant 1.0 km
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