Kinsterna Hotel
Monemvasia, Peloponnese, Greece
Reviewed by
Merope Mills
The southeast Peloponnese peninsula is the place to head if you're searching for the quieter Greece. Hundreds of thousands may flock to the country’s most famous islands, but at the bottom of the southern mainland is this beautiful, lesser-visited region that's full of history and legend. It's a 4-hour drive from Athens, but worth every minute in the car.
The Kinsterna opened here in 2010, just before Greece's economic woes reached crisis point. Other businesses might have floundered, but this boutique hotel and spa thrived, soon clocking up recommendations as one of the world’s best new hotels; a reputation that has stood the test of time. Its location is a major draw - just secluded enough, and set high on a hillside with views of the Aegean Sea and the medieval castle-city of Monemvasia. The local owners took their time over their tasteful renovation of the Byzantine-era rural mansion and its private grounds, creating a relaxed haven with 51 rooms and suites. Meanwhile, sustainability has been prioritised at every turn; from homegrown produce in the award-winning restaurant to spring-fed pools and power generated from their own solar farm, they're taking self-sufficiency seriously.
Beyond the honey-coloured confines, the rich white-sand beaches of Elafonisos are within reach, as is the hidden port of Gerakas with its excellent seafood. But most couples come here for the romance, peace and calm of the hotel itself.
The Kinsterna opened here in 2010, just before Greece's economic woes reached crisis point. Other businesses might have floundered, but this boutique hotel and spa thrived, soon clocking up recommendations as one of the world’s best new hotels; a reputation that has stood the test of time. Its location is a major draw - just secluded enough, and set high on a hillside with views of the Aegean Sea and the medieval castle-city of Monemvasia. The local owners took their time over their tasteful renovation of the Byzantine-era rural mansion and its private grounds, creating a relaxed haven with 51 rooms and suites. Meanwhile, sustainability has been prioritised at every turn; from homegrown produce in the award-winning restaurant to spring-fed pools and power generated from their own solar farm, they're taking self-sufficiency seriously.
Beyond the honey-coloured confines, the rich white-sand beaches of Elafonisos are within reach, as is the hidden port of Gerakas with its excellent seafood. But most couples come here for the romance, peace and calm of the hotel itself.
Highs
- Beautiful rooms, kept cool with restored stone walls, and comfortable thanks to Coco-Mat beds and luxe furnishings
- The hotel is surrounded by a moat-like pool, which emanates from a fresh-water spring. It feeds a central cistern, then flows on to create the lovely swimming pool
- Excellent food and wine, served on terraces over the cistern, and mostly grown from their own land and vineyards
- A restored Ottoman hammam in the spa, along with indoor and outdoor Jacuzzis and decadent treatments (citrus scrubs, a detoxifying honey massage and Arabic razul)
- The peace and tranquillity of the Peloponnese
Lows
- A mission to get to, and once here a remoteness from everything. You will need a car or taxi to get to Monemvasia (7km) and beaches
- Patchy WiFi, a plus for those wanting to disconnect
- Jacuzzi use in Deluxe and Premium Residences comes with an extra cost per night
- Music by the swimming pool can feel loud and imposing
Best time to go
Try and avoid high summer (late June, July and August), partly because of the heat and partly because it is so busy. You’ll need to book months ahead for a summer weekend. In April-mid June and Sep-Oct it is quieter and cooler, with lovely flowers in spring and warm seas in autumn. If you want to see the ghost town as it was before the renovators moved in 10-20 years ago, come in winter (Nov-March, though the hotel is closed for certain weeks of this period, generally early Nov-mid Dec, and mid Jan-Feb first).
Our top tips
Reception can arrange a private wine-tasting of their homegrown bottles on the hotel terrace that looks over the vineyards. If you take a shine to a particular vintage they’ll help ship you home a crate.