Read a travel guide to the Italian Lakes and it might not even mention Lake Orta. And that’s exactly why you should go there. It may be smaller than its more-famous neighbour, Maggiore, but what it lacks in celebrity it makes up for in charm: faded waterfront villas, sleepy medieval villages and an intriguing island monastery, set against a dreamy backdrop of steep green escarpments and low-hanging mist. It’s no wonder creative minds such as Byron, Browning and Balzac came here for inspiration.
Nestled into the forest above the picturesque Orta San Giulio, La Darbia is the perfect place to take it all in. Forged from a farmhouse inherited from their grandfather, brothers Gian Carlo and Matteo used their passion for architecture to create 20 stylish apartments, each with a phenomenal lake view. In the extensive grounds they discovered an ancient vineyard, from which they now produce Nebbiolo wine; you can do tastings in the rustic La Cantina cellar. Breakfast baskets are delivered to your door, there’s an infinity pool overlooking the lake and it’s a downhill stroll into the village. If you’re a couple or family looking for a less-commercial Italian Lakes break, you won’t find better. We can’t wait to visit.
Highs
- An incredible setting overlooking Lake Orta, a hidden gem in the Italian Lakes; far quieter than Maggiore or Como
- The views! Best enjoyed from a sunlounger by the heated pool, aperitivo in hand...
- The apartments: stylish, spacious and spotlessly clean, with kitchens for self-catering and a private terrace or garden
- The onsite traditional Italian restaurant, La Cucina. Reasonably priced, and they can deliver meals to your apartment, too
- Ideal for families. The pool is heated and there's a small playground plus watersports nearby
Lows
- Due to the tucked-away location and lack of signs, finding La Darbia can be tricky; be sure to follow our detailed directions
- WiFi can be patchy
- You may want to hire a car if you plan to self-cater, as the best shops are a short drive away
- It’s a hilly walk back up from Orta and there’s no footpath, but the road is relatively quiet; take a torch at night
Best time to go
Our favourite times are the shoulder seasons of May-June and September-October, when the weather is balmy but not too hot. Temperatures soar in July and August (all apartments have air con), and though not as swamped as Lake Maggiore or Como, the region gets busy with tourists. The winter months are considerably cooler and La Darbia is closed mid Nov to mid March. Orta San Giulio holds a popular poetry festival each autumn.
Our top tips
If you’re a keen photographer, you’ll be in seventh heaven as Lake Orta offers an ever-changing palette. In the early morning a low-lying mist often settles over the lake, giving it an ethereal feel. Throughout the day the water changes from a deep afternoon blue to a dusky silver-grey. La Darbia faces west so it’s a great spot to watch the sunset over Isola San Giulio and Mount Rosa beyond.
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 5 independent reviews from i-escape guests
We had a lovely stay and would come again. We liked our room and loved the gardens. The only thing we missed was a long mirror. I like to check my complete outfit before I leave the room. We would have appreciated a sun shade on our terrace or maybe outside curtains. Dinning outside with full sun exposure was not to our liking.
We all really loved La Darbia. The apartments have got everything you’d need and the staff are really welcoming and helpful (especially as our Italian language skills are limited). The site and the surrounding views/woods are really picturesque whether the weather was sunny or more moody. We used the room service a few times and found the food great and the breakfast baskets were a major highlight. The WhatsApp group for ordering room service was great, maybe this could be used for other things like ordering drinks from the pool? We were there in the off season but still found it really busy to park in Orta, maybe a little shuttle van down there to save the hassle of the car? (It’s a bit far to walk). Would definitely come back!
A beautiful place with excellent service and delicious breakfast baskets.
It’s impossible to do the view justice with photos.
Lots of space to relax around the pool and plenty to do in the area. You do need a car. Walking to town for dinners etc isn’t really doable. Especially with children.
This is really a hidden gem. Spacious mini-apartment with tasteful interior and an extraordinary view from the balcony. The breakfast is a real treat - organic products of your choice delivered in a basket at your door. But the absolutely best is the lounge terrace bar at sunset and the extraordinary gourmet dinner at the restaurant in La Darbia - an ambitious experience.
The rooms at La Darbia are lovely, with great views over the pool down on to the valley below. The coffee that was available in the kitchen (to be used with the moka pot) was delicious. Breakfasts are very good, especially the yogurts, breads and the absolutely delicious jams. The quality of everything was top notch - all from local artisan suppliers and you could tell. The croissants are great - keep in mind that the pain au chocolate are "mini". On Saturday and Sunday mornings you can order a hot breakfast and smoothies. All items are delivered to your apartment. I would have liked to have power plugs in the double bedroom rather than having to charge items in the kitchen over night. We also could not get the tv to work but we were not bothered so did not enquire. I am sure it would have been sorted for us in no time. The terrace bar is fabulous - have a drink here before dinner to enjoy the views. If you have been out touring all day it's a great option to have a drink with gorgeous tasting boards on the terrace also. The on-site restaurant is amazing, if a little pricey. The decor and service are fabulous and the food is excellent. Do book well in advance - you can tell a lot of the clientele eating here are regulars. Be aware though that this is adventurous food. Our 12 year old struggled with the choices which were a little bit beyond his palate. The staff did everything in their power to accommodate him and kept bringing him things to try. The pool is fantastic, with great facilities such as day beds with muslin curtains and a toilet (no need to traipse back to your apartment). The view from the pool down on to Lake Orta is magical, regardless of time of day or weather. The village of Orta is enchanting - a stately palazzo with bell tower on the edge of the lake and overlooking the beautiful island of San Giulio. Boats line the waters edge like a mini Venice. There are plenty cafes, restaurants, shops and interesting architectural gems to while away a day or two. Drive up to the nearby skiing resort of Mattarone for breathtaking views. Be sure to stop at the restaurant at the top for the best pizza ever. In all, I would recommend La Darbia and am particularly thankful to the amazing staff that made our stay so pleasant.
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape