Vivere Suites
Lake Garda, Italian Lakes & Verona, Italy
Reviewed by
Abi Dare
Modern minimalism isn’t quite what you expect in a corner of Italy characterised by grandiose villas and ancient castles, but that’s exactly what winemaker and restaurateur Edy Longo has created in the quiet town of Arco, just beyond the northern tip of Lake Garda. What’s even more surprising is just how well the sleek lines of his contemporary concrete cube fit in a landscape of rugged peaks, forested slopes and silvery olive groves.
Clustered around a saltwater pool, whose indigo water reflects the towering mountains above, are 6 spacious suites, a small spa area and a decked terrace with cushioned daybeds. Everywhere you look, vast walls of glass gaze out over the sea of vines which Edy’s family has tended for generations. While the décor has been pared down, the comfort factor certainly hasn’t; above all, this is a place to kick back and unwind. There are bikes to borrow if you want to explore, and the waterfront town of Riva del Garda is only 10 minutes away, but chances are you’ll spend most of your days in a lazy haze of sunbathing, massages and poolside drinks. And don't worry if you can't muster the energy to head out for food: meal delivery from Edy’s nearby restaurant is only a phone call away.
Clustered around a saltwater pool, whose indigo water reflects the towering mountains above, are 6 spacious suites, a small spa area and a decked terrace with cushioned daybeds. Everywhere you look, vast walls of glass gaze out over the sea of vines which Edy’s family has tended for generations. While the décor has been pared down, the comfort factor certainly hasn’t; above all, this is a place to kick back and unwind. There are bikes to borrow if you want to explore, and the waterfront town of Riva del Garda is only 10 minutes away, but chances are you’ll spend most of your days in a lazy haze of sunbathing, massages and poolside drinks. And don't worry if you can't muster the energy to head out for food: meal delivery from Edy’s nearby restaurant is only a phone call away.
Highs
- An excellent location away from the tourist crowds, but within easy reach of the lake for sightseeing, sailing and windsurfing
- Every suite has a private garden, a sitting area and its own entrance (some have little kitchenettes, too) - perfect for loved-up couples and stressed-out city folk who want to cocoon themselves away from the world
- We loved the lantern-lit terrace - sit back with a glass of wine as the sinking sun casts a rosy glow over the valley
- Total tranquility - the only sounds we heard were chirruping crickets, occasional church bells and the low hum of a distant tractor
- An extensive breakfast spread (unusual for Italy), with local cheeses, salami, eggs and delicious pastries alongside Vivere's own honey, jam and olive oil
Lows
- It's pricey for a B&B, with a 10% surcharge on stays of less than 3 nights, but you get a lot of space for your Euro
- It’s next to a small industrial estate, but once through the gates all you can see are vines and mountains
- No twin beds - the suites are geared towards couples, though children are welcome in limited numbers
- It can be tricky to find (our SatNav took us the wrong way down a one-way street), so make sure you print out our detailed directions, provided automatically when you book
- Edy lives down the road and isn’t always on site, but he’ll be over in minutes if you need assistance
Best time to go
This is a wonderful escape at any time of year. We visited in early May, when temperatures were balmy but the mountains high above us still topped with snow. Autumn is another great time to come, particularly if you want to experience the wine and olive harvests. Be prepared for swarms of tourists in July and August, though Arco is set back from the lakeshore and is therefore much quieter than other towns in the area. Vivere Suites closes from November to March, apart from a week or so over Christmas and New Year.
Our top tips
Many of the beautiful Gianni Vigone textiles are available to buy, and they're worth the spend - robes, towels and blankets made from the softest natural fibres, with subtle hand-woven textures.