Pianaura Suites
Marano di Valpolicella, Italian Lakes & Verona, Italy
Reviewed by
Abi Dare
You’ve probably drunk its wine, but chances are you’d struggle to pinpoint Valpolicella on a map. And good thing too, as it means this trio of leafy valleys, tucked away in the hills above Verona, has remained blissfully tourist-free. It’s a well-kept secret that’s worth exploring - not only for its grapes, but for its stunning landscapes, its sleepy medieval villages, and this rather special B&B.
Standing sentry over a terraced hillside, it occupies a pair of tall 17th-century farmhouses that have been lovingly restored by owners Mara and Filippo. One is now their dream home; the other, a guest block housing 2 spoiling suites and a lounge. Inside, all is white and bright, with beamed ceilings, shuttered windows and a stylish mish-mash of contemporary furniture and flea-market finds. Outside, lawns burst with lavender, poppies and fragrant herbs, and easy chairs sit under pergolas whose gauzy curtains billow in the breeze. If you want to stay put, find a secluded spot among the flowers and gaze out over the vines to the silvery mountains glinting on the horizon. Head out and you can hike through meadows, picnic by waterfalls or dip into the sights of Verona and Lake Garda. And of course, there are plenty of wineries to visit, too.
Standing sentry over a terraced hillside, it occupies a pair of tall 17th-century farmhouses that have been lovingly restored by owners Mara and Filippo. One is now their dream home; the other, a guest block housing 2 spoiling suites and a lounge. Inside, all is white and bright, with beamed ceilings, shuttered windows and a stylish mish-mash of contemporary furniture and flea-market finds. Outside, lawns burst with lavender, poppies and fragrant herbs, and easy chairs sit under pergolas whose gauzy curtains billow in the breeze. If you want to stay put, find a secluded spot among the flowers and gaze out over the vines to the silvery mountains glinting on the horizon. Head out and you can hike through meadows, picnic by waterfalls or dip into the sights of Verona and Lake Garda. And of course, there are plenty of wineries to visit, too.
Highs
- A rural setting away from the crowds, but well-placed for exploring; Verona is a 20-minute drive in one direction, Lake Garda is a 30-minute drive in the other
- A sensitive transformation of beautiful old buildings, with chic interiors, restored stonework and an ingenious new tunnel linking the towers
- Perfect for romance and relaxation: four-poster beds, a spa room for massages and yoga, and an outdoor hydrotherapy pool
- Mara and Filippo are exceptional hosts - and their golden retriever Seta will quickly become your new best friend
- Everything has been designed to make you feel special - complimentary carafes of local wine, jars of homemade biscuits...
Lows
- No lunch, dinner or bar (breakfast is served in the lounge area), and the nearest restaurants are a drive away; you'll need a car
- No children under 14 are accepted
- It's accessed via a single-track lane with a vertical drop on one side. Be prepared for some careful manoeuvring if you meet a car coming in the other direction
- Credit cards aren’t accepted, so you’ll have to bring plenty of cash
Best time to go
Summer is busy around Verona and the Italian Lakes, but the Valpolicella valleys make a wonderful escape from the heat and the crowds, with plenty of cooling breezes. They're just as delightful in spring, when wild flowers carpet the hillsides, and in autumn, when the vines turn orange. Unlike many hotels in the region, Pianaura Suites stays open all year round, so you can also visit in winter and make the most of the snowy alpine landscapes and cross-country skiing in the nearby Lessina National Park.
Our top tips
Verona arena hosts a world-renowned opera festival from June until September. It’s worth catching even if you’re not an opera fan, as watching an open-air performance in this ancient setting is a magical experience. You’ll need to book well ahead, as tickets often sell out months in advance.