Villa Arcadio
Lake Garda, Italian Lakes & Verona, Italy
Reviewed by
Lesley Gillilan
A former monastery, it had been empty for decades when Francesco and Jaana bought the villa in 1996. A seasoned travel-industry pro, Jaana was looking for a new project. And this was some task; transforming a medieval ruin into an 18-room boutique hotel took the best part of 10 years.
Behind rough rubbled stone, she has created elegant salons illuminated by walls of glass and furnished with a stylish collection of English grandfather clocks, Italian prints, antique mirrors and smart Casa Milano armchairs. There is a candlelit dining room under a vaulted ceiling, an inner courtyard of trailing bougainvillea, and a glamorous outdoor pool lined with loungers. But the location is the thing. Step onto the terrace, where laced wrought-iron chairs sit beneath a vine-draped pergola, and look at that heavenly view: lush gardens speared with cypress trees and, beyond, the sparkling waters of Italy’s largest lake. Watch the sun slip behind the green mountains, or the twinkling lights of Salò against a fading evening sky. Pure magic.
Behind rough rubbled stone, she has created elegant salons illuminated by walls of glass and furnished with a stylish collection of English grandfather clocks, Italian prints, antique mirrors and smart Casa Milano armchairs. There is a candlelit dining room under a vaulted ceiling, an inner courtyard of trailing bougainvillea, and a glamorous outdoor pool lined with loungers. But the location is the thing. Step onto the terrace, where laced wrought-iron chairs sit beneath a vine-draped pergola, and look at that heavenly view: lush gardens speared with cypress trees and, beyond, the sparkling waters of Italy’s largest lake. Watch the sun slip behind the green mountains, or the twinkling lights of Salò against a fading evening sky. Pure magic.
Highs
- Those views - blissing out by the pool as boats shimmered across the lake below was unforgettable
- Sensational food in the beautiful restaurant, with 4-course tasting menus and produce grown in the gardens
- Nearby Salò, a charming lakeside town with bars, restaurants and upmarket boutiques (30-minute walk or short taxi ride)
- Superb rooms where sleek furniture and expensive linens sit under beamed ceilings or fragments of 13th-century frescoes
- Excellent service
Lows
- There’s a constant hum of traffic from the nearby road, though the double glazing cuts out most of the noise in the rooms
- If you're visiting outside of peak summer season there are no lunches or light bites offered during the day - you'll need to drive out
- Rooms can be rather pricey in high season
- You'll need a car to explore the area, although taxis can be arranged and there is a bus stop close by
- Garden view rooms have the same price tag as lake view rooms, but some do have private terraces
Best time to go
Come in spring for blossom and balmy weather, or in early summer for beautiful gardens, fragrant jasmine and bright geraniums. Autumn is also spectacular, with wine and olive oil harvests; warm weather often lingers until late October. It can get hot and quite busy around the lake in July/August, though the air-conditioned hotel is a cool escape from the crowds. Villa Arcadio closes from December to March (exact dates vary).
Our top tips
Drive the road which hugs the western shore of the lake, plunging in and out of rock tunnels and skirting vineyards and handsome villages. The journey up to Riva del Garda at the northern tip takes around an hour.