Reviewed by
Tom Bell
La Mirande - one of the loveliest buildings in Avignon - stands opposite the southern wall of the Papal Palace and was once owned by the physician of Napoleon III. The façade dates to 1688, the dining room to the 14th century, and on this land once stood the Palace of the Cardinals. Outside, the cobbled streets of the old town are strictly for feet, not cars, making this one of the quietest city hotels you’ll ever find. And all things Avignon are on your doorstep.
Inside, a treasure-trove of beautiful things awaits, not least in the excellent gourmet restaurant (don’t miss the tasting menus). The hub of the hotel is the interior patio, where afternoon tea is irresistible. Elsewhere, chandeliers aplenty in the Bistro; English decorum in the pretty breakfast room; a sublime walled garden that shines in summer. The smart rooms come in country-house style, with marble bathrooms, enticing beds, the very best linen and the most wonderful wallpaper, plus almost all overlook the palace.
Inside, a treasure-trove of beautiful things awaits, not least in the excellent gourmet restaurant (don’t miss the tasting menus). The hub of the hotel is the interior patio, where afternoon tea is irresistible. Elsewhere, chandeliers aplenty in the Bistro; English decorum in the pretty breakfast room; a sublime walled garden that shines in summer. The smart rooms come in country-house style, with marble bathrooms, enticing beds, the very best linen and the most wonderful wallpaper, plus almost all overlook the palace.
Highs
- This beautiful old mansion has an unbeatable position opposite the Papal Palace
- We were utterly blown away by the food, which is served in a 14th-century dining room
- The terraced garden is a real boon in the middle of the city
- Staff excel at delivering brilliant service throughout the hotel
- A great base for day trips around Provence
Lows
- It is undoubtedly expensive, but this is a beautiful hotel and they rarely come cheap
- The buffet breakfast is pricey, and while the spread is extensive, you can head to nearby cafés and pay a lot less
- The city can get very busy during its summer festival (mid-July/early August)
- Parking is an issue; we got lost in Avignon’s narrow streets trying to find somewhere to leave the car
Best time to go
Avignon is a small city, thus a year-round destination. The festival draws 200,000 people into the city walls between mid-July and early-August, so if you want to avoid the crowds, steer clear then.
Our top tips
Take a drive to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence (30 minutes by car) and visit Saint-Paul de Mausole, the institute Van Gogh admitted himself to. It's a hauntingly beautiful complex where he painted some of his most famous works. You can stand at the window in his former bedroom and gaze out across the lavender. While in town, check out the Roman ruins at Glanum.