Reviewed by
Abi Dare
The drive to the tiny hamlet of Chiesanuova is quite an adventure. Leaving the motorway, you corkscrew down a plunging hillside, cross a river and then start to climb again, twisting ever higher while praying you don’t meet a bus coming in the opposite direction. But take a deep breath and persevere: what awaits at the top is well worth the jangled nerves.
Occupying one of Chiesanuova’s ancient stone houses, La Sosta di Ottone III (so-called because Holy Roman Emperor Otto III stayed here en route to his coronation in 996) is an intimate hideaway that combines homely charm with plenty of gastronomic flair. The 6 bedrooms, all with beamed ceilings and shuttered windows, gaze out over terracotta rooftops and forested hills to the endless blue sea far below. Downstairs, the chef/sommelier serves up delicious Ligurian specialities made from the freshest local ingredients, while butterflies flit among the vines on the terrace outside. The famed Cinque Terre - a Unesco-listed string of colourful villages clinging precariously to the cliffs - lie just along the coast, and smiling owners Angela and Fabio will point you in the direction of hiking paths, beaches, vineyards and more.
Occupying one of Chiesanuova’s ancient stone houses, La Sosta di Ottone III (so-called because Holy Roman Emperor Otto III stayed here en route to his coronation in 996) is an intimate hideaway that combines homely charm with plenty of gastronomic flair. The 6 bedrooms, all with beamed ceilings and shuttered windows, gaze out over terracotta rooftops and forested hills to the endless blue sea far below. Downstairs, the chef/sommelier serves up delicious Ligurian specialities made from the freshest local ingredients, while butterflies flit among the vines on the terrace outside. The famed Cinque Terre - a Unesco-listed string of colourful villages clinging precariously to the cliffs - lie just along the coast, and smiling owners Angela and Fabio will point you in the direction of hiking paths, beaches, vineyards and more.
Highs
- An excellent base for exploring the Cinque Terre, yet removed from the crowds which clog the villages in summer
- Soaring sea views from the terrace and some bedrooms; sunsets here are magical
- Top-notch food based on authentic local recipes, plus a vast selection of unusual wines. Cooking classes and olive-oil tastings can be arranged, too
- A pretty little garden where you can sit back among the flowers and wallow in total serenity
- Friendly staff who are passionate about this beautiful corner of Italy; they'll happily share insider tips and plan bespoke day trips
Lows
- You’ll have to walk the last 50m stretch to Chiesanuova (it’s only accessible by footpath), but there are designated parking spaces on the nearby road
- The church bells opposite clang on the hour, every hour, from early morning until late evening
- Don’t expect 24-hour reception; let staff know in advance if you plan to arrive later than 6pm
- It's pricey, and rates don't include breakfast, but it's worth the splurge
- There's been a change in chef since our last visit, but we're assured the food remains as good as ever (restaurant closes on Mondays)
Best time to go
La Sosta di Ottone III is open from April to October. Spring and autumn are particularly beautiful, with balmy days, wildflowers, and temperatures that are ideal for hiking along the coastal paths. The Cinque Terre are inundated with tourists in July and August, but Chiesanouva makes a quiet base to retreat to at the end of the day.
Our top tips
Head to Vernazza (our favourite of the Cinque Terre) and climb the steps which twist up the cliff from the harbour. Part way up you’ll find Ristorante Belforte and its sea-view terrace - a wonderful spot to linger over mounds of pasta. Afterwards, stroll around the village and admire its lemon- and rose-coloured houses - it sits at the mouth of a ravine and was destroyed by flooding in 2011, but it’s been beautifully restored.