Reviewed by
Abi Dare
Whilst you've probably heard of Portofino and Santa Margherita (coastal playgrounds to the glitterati), you might not be so familiar with Liguria's hinterland. So let us fill you in. A peaceful, mountainous area layered with larch forests, olive groves, vertiginous footpaths and old stone houses, it's a far cry from the bright lights of the Italian Riviera, yet it's an easy drive from beaches for relaxed day trips.
Borgomaro is the main village in the area's Maro valley - population 884 at the last count. Pastel houses line the river, there's a lovely 17th-century church, and children play barefoot in the square; it's an enchanting slice of rural Italy. Relais del Maro has a plum position in the centre of everything, and is run with big smiles by owner Elena and her mother. An albergo diffuso, it's spread over 3 ancient buildings which were once home to their ancestors and premises for a butcher, barber and baker. Now beautifully restored, they house 14 immaculate bedrooms, a breakfast room and a library-lounge. There's also a flower-filled garden overlooking the village, with a tranquil pool and a bubbling Jacuzzi. If your idea of luxury includes lazy siestas, relaxed walks and time to read, this place will top your wishlist.
Borgomaro is the main village in the area's Maro valley - population 884 at the last count. Pastel houses line the river, there's a lovely 17th-century church, and children play barefoot in the square; it's an enchanting slice of rural Italy. Relais del Maro has a plum position in the centre of everything, and is run with big smiles by owner Elena and her mother. An albergo diffuso, it's spread over 3 ancient buildings which were once home to their ancestors and premises for a butcher, barber and baker. Now beautifully restored, they house 14 immaculate bedrooms, a breakfast room and a library-lounge. There's also a flower-filled garden overlooking the village, with a tranquil pool and a bubbling Jacuzzi. If your idea of luxury includes lazy siestas, relaxed walks and time to read, this place will top your wishlist.
Highs
- The experience of staying in an authentic Ligurian village; you feel part of local life
- Elegant guest rooms with beamed ceilings and very comfy beds
- Excellent breakfasts of local produce (complete with Prosecco for that holiday feeling!), plus delicious light lunches and homemade afternoon cakes
- Lots of options for easy day trips (hilltop towns, sweeping beaches, Dominican convents), as well as beautiful walking trails
- A commendable commitment to slow living and the environment - the albergo was restored sensitively, with the aim of keeping Borgomaro alive
Lows
- Guests staying in Casa del Borgo and Casa del Fienile have to walk to the main house for breakfast and to use the pool (3-5 minutes respectively)
- The church bell - though it's silenced at night
- Some rooms are smaller and darker than others due to restrictions imposed by the old buildings
- WiFi can be patchy, although they have installed a faster line
Best time to go
Spring and autumn are glorious, with rich colours and soft light. The coast is heaving with Italian tourists in July and August, but if you're happy to potter locally then you'll escape the worst of the crowds. Borgomaro has a paella festival in May (usually the third weekend) and a mussels and Porchetta festival on the second weekend of July. During both, the whole village is set up with tables, and there's live music and dancing.
Our top tips
The spectacular Alpine path under Mount Toraggio is Europe's most rewarding nature trail. You'll hike past straight, Dolomite-like rock faces, along strenuous switchbacks and through beautiful larch forests. Allow at least 6 hours, pack water, sun cream and binoculars, and consider taking a guide.