Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
La Matarranya? Even Spaniards might be hard pressed to pinpoint this little-known corner of Aragón or tell you much about it. Think wild Provence: hilltop villages, almond groves, forested hills amidst limestone peaks, vineyards and olive groves. Add a dash of the remoter parts of Tuscany, with a food culture to match, and you’re getting close to the essence of this place.
La Torre del Visco’s estate embraces a 220-acre slice of one of the region’s most beautiful river valleys. Surrounded by meadows and orchards, rose, herb and vegetable gardens, the 16 understated rooms and suites combine original art, antiques, old stones and muted fabrics in a master class of interior pizzazz. Fit for a king? Sure, he’s stayed here, and when I slumped into a sofa next to a blazing fire it was to share conversation with four of Spain’s best-known actors. Remote, remarkable and revitalising, La Torre del Visco is about hospitality at its very best.
La Torre del Visco’s estate embraces a 220-acre slice of one of the region’s most beautiful river valleys. Surrounded by meadows and orchards, rose, herb and vegetable gardens, the 16 understated rooms and suites combine original art, antiques, old stones and muted fabrics in a master class of interior pizzazz. Fit for a king? Sure, he’s stayed here, and when I slumped into a sofa next to a blazing fire it was to share conversation with four of Spain’s best-known actors. Remote, remarkable and revitalising, La Torre del Visco is about hospitality at its very best.
Highs
- Award-winning cuisine with a a daily changing menu and an open-kitchen philosophy: you can learn what’s behind the divine food.
- Beautifully remote and peaceful with fabulous hiking, biking and horse riding all around
- A lovely pool for lazy days
- I liked owner Jemma's warmth and enthusiasm, and a high staff-to-guest ratio ensures you’re brilliantly cared for
- Perfect for a special occasion
Lows
- Winters can be very cold, but crisp and sunny too, and you won’t find a more snug hideaway
- No TVs or minibars although there's an open cellar for guests to serve themselves at any time if restaurant service isn't available
- No other restaurants within walking distance, but you'll want to eat in every night anyway
- Only children over 6 are allowed, it feels more of an adult place
- You’ll need a car to get the best out of a stay here
Best time to go
If spring, autumn and summer are the best times of year for exploring what lies all around you, Visco is also a great place to stay in winter, when fires are lit in the public spaces and all bedrooms and suites feel warm and welcoming. Wildflowers - much of the surrounding land has never seen the use of pesticides - are mind-boggling from April through to June. Be sure to check out the olive harvest in the autumn. The hotel closes annually from early Jan - early Feb.
Our top tips
Book a return flight for a week to Barcelona, have a couple of nights of city culture (see our recommended places to stay), then spoil yourself with a 5-night stay at La Torre del Visco. You’ll return home revitalised but may find yourself wishing you could up sticks and move to La Matarranya...