Reviewed by
Rachel Howard
Homeland of Homer's exiled hero, rugged little Ithaca remains surprisingly untarnished by tourism. Yachts cruise the azure coves, but few visitors venture into the lush hills that conceal ancient ruins and dramatic hiking trails. Nestled on a wooded slope with stunning sea views, Levendis is a cross between an elite gated retreat and a homespun organic farm. 4 modest cottages are camouflaged among terraced gardens perfumed with sage, rosemary and thyme; stone steps lead to an infinity pool straight out of the Hollywood hills. Only the chime of church bells punctuates the peace.
When Spero and Mal built the estate in 1997, their dream was to share the natural beauty and bounty with others. They run the place with easy-going grace, despite the gritty labour involved in maintaining the organic orchards and olive groves. Even the toiletries are home-blended and homeopathic. Water comes straight from Kalamos spring; allegedly, those who drink from it will always be happy, healthy and return to Ithaca. Perhaps that’s why over half the guests are regulars.
When Spero and Mal built the estate in 1997, their dream was to share the natural beauty and bounty with others. They run the place with easy-going grace, despite the gritty labour involved in maintaining the organic orchards and olive groves. Even the toiletries are home-blended and homeopathic. Water comes straight from Kalamos spring; allegedly, those who drink from it will always be happy, healthy and return to Ithaca. Perhaps that’s why over half the guests are regulars.
Highs
- Overwhelming sense of escapism the moment you enter the gated estate
- Moonlit midnight swims in a glittering infinity pool above a cliff-backed bay
- Seasonal organic goodies plucked straight from the orchards
- Alfresco aromatherapy massage in a shady glade to a soundtrack of lapping waves and whirring cicadas
- Personal, relaxed service and insider tips courtesy of Greek Australian owners Marilyn (Mal), Spero and their kids who make you, your friends and family feel instantly at home
Lows
- Interiors are rustic not luxurious
- Unruly toddlers in neighbouring cottages might disturb the peace – be sure to ask who else is staying when you book
- It's not cheap, but rates do include breakfast, airport transfers and car hire
Best time to go
We think June and September are perfect if you can take time off then. July-August are the most popular months; book well in advance. In spring (April-May), free activities are laid on, including wildflower walks, painting workshops, and cookery classes.
Our top tips
If you come in summer, try and experience one of the local church festivals (Exogi, July 17; Kioni, July 20, Stavros, August 5 & 6; Anogi, August 14; Platrithia, August 15). After the service, there's usually moonlit song and dancing, fuelled by masses of roast meat and wine.