Reviewed by
Tom Bell
Ithaca is a dream, Vathi is gorgeous, and the Perantzada is the jewel in the crown. The town itself was rebuilt after the 1956 earthquake, but the architecture gives no hint of this: neo-classically-inspired houses smartly dressed in summer colours horseshoe around a shimmering Mediterranean harbour, giving the impression that you’ve washed up on the set of a Merchant Ivory film. Pavements buzz with life, bars fill, locals and tourists dine at waterside restaurants.
This 19th-century, Schiller-designed house sits on the quiet side of the bay. Its formal exterior belies the crispest of contemporary interiors, the stuff of glossy magazines. Bold bedrooms - most with sea views - come in filmscreen white, with funky fabrics in bubblegum pink, electric green, vivid yellow (don’t come looking for greys or browns). Chandeliered lounges, rug-strewn terraces and the small infinity pool offer gorgeous views, with the mountain and town reflected in clear blue water. Fine bathrooms, a small bar and staff that care: a great little place.
This 19th-century, Schiller-designed house sits on the quiet side of the bay. Its formal exterior belies the crispest of contemporary interiors, the stuff of glossy magazines. Bold bedrooms - most with sea views - come in filmscreen white, with funky fabrics in bubblegum pink, electric green, vivid yellow (don’t come looking for greys or browns). Chandeliered lounges, rug-strewn terraces and the small infinity pool offer gorgeous views, with the mountain and town reflected in clear blue water. Fine bathrooms, a small bar and staff that care: a great little place.
Highs
- We love the beautiful town of Vathi – a friendly, unspoilt place hidden in a deep, sheltered inlet
- You'll never tire of the views across the bay to the mountains rising behind
- The bedrooms are very groovy: certainly a cut above most Greek hotels
- This is a bustling harbour, offering boat trips to beaches along the coast
Lows
- No airport on Ithaca, so you are reliant on the sporadic ferry services which often stop by mid-afternoon
- Prices are getting steep, especially given that service can be a little thin on the ground
- No restaurant in the hotel, but it's only a short walk
Best time to go
Spring is ideal for walking - the wildflowers are in bloom and temperatures mild enough to tackle the steep hills. Go in late summer for writing, painting or yoga breaks. In high summer, Ithaca’s beaches are crowded with Greeks and sailboats, but you can join the fun at church festivals (Exogi, July 17; Kioni, July 20, Stavros, August 5 & 6; Anogi, August 14; Platrithia, August 15).
Our top tips
The Perantzada is a lovely place to indulge in the Greek pastime of sitting and watching: boats potter in, locals saunter past, staff bring café frappé. The terraces are lined with ethnic rugs and flower-filled terracotta pots, walls cascade with greenery, at night candle lanterns flicker.