Reviewed by
Emily McDonnell
Tucked away in high Provence is this glorious, three-hectare country estate. Within it, set among olive groves, are 24 uber-chic rooms and suites. Each one is unique, some with a history dating back to the early 1800s. Choose a room in the lovingly restored, original stone houses (most have private terraces) spread through the garden from the hilltop down to the village square, or splurge on a three-storey, tower-like suite with views over the cliff.
The gardens are vast, tranquil and beautifully well-kept, we spent hours moving from hidden corner to hidden corner with a book and coffee (sometimes wine), watching the light change over Provence’s rolling hills. A large heated pool sparkles somewhere among the trees, there's a separate one for families too. After a morning exploring picturesque Cotignac (awarded prettiest village in France in 2022), visiting its ancient cliff-side houses, cave dwellings and art studio-lined streets, we had the tough choice to make between restaurants, each one another successful restoration project undertaken by the owners. We chose the fine-dining option; here a top-rated chef works his magic using produce plucked from the kitchen garden, and you are able to enjoy course after course in private, homely dining rooms that are majestically French.
Spend days reclining on a sunny pool lounger or sampling beer at the hotel microbrewery (yep, it has one of those too). We managed (with difficulty!) to drag ourselves away from this sanctuary to discover Provence's spectacular scenery – from mountain lakes and hidden waterfalls to historic hilltop towns and ancient vineyards – content with the knowledge we’d be cosying up in our sumptuous suite after a session in the steam shower. Bliss.
The gardens are vast, tranquil and beautifully well-kept, we spent hours moving from hidden corner to hidden corner with a book and coffee (sometimes wine), watching the light change over Provence’s rolling hills. A large heated pool sparkles somewhere among the trees, there's a separate one for families too. After a morning exploring picturesque Cotignac (awarded prettiest village in France in 2022), visiting its ancient cliff-side houses, cave dwellings and art studio-lined streets, we had the tough choice to make between restaurants, each one another successful restoration project undertaken by the owners. We chose the fine-dining option; here a top-rated chef works his magic using produce plucked from the kitchen garden, and you are able to enjoy course after course in private, homely dining rooms that are majestically French.
Spend days reclining on a sunny pool lounger or sampling beer at the hotel microbrewery (yep, it has one of those too). We managed (with difficulty!) to drag ourselves away from this sanctuary to discover Provence's spectacular scenery – from mountain lakes and hidden waterfalls to historic hilltop towns and ancient vineyards – content with the knowledge we’d be cosying up in our sumptuous suite after a session in the steam shower. Bliss.
Highs
- The picturesque, nature-rich country estate is quite the setting, with striking cliffs on one side, and Provence’s rolling hills on the other
- We loved the classic-yet-chic Provencal country styling, with modern art on the walls and a steam shower in the bathroom
- The tree-lined pools, perfectly placed in the lush green gardens
- A top location: in the heart of a charming Provencal village, bustling with art stores, great eateries and live-music venues
- Lunch at Jardin Secret was a treat – three courses made with ingredients sourced from within a 35km radius – each course light and bursting with flavour; no wonder it won a Green Michelin Star in 2023
Lows
- Parts of the hotel are still under construction (including some of the rooms) so you might see some building work within the grounds
- The main restaurant is closed for lunch and dinner on Weds & Thurs, but the bistro is open everyday bar Monday (& Sunday evening); the wine bar is only open mid-June to mid-Sept
- Finding the place is a challenge – bring detailed directions!
- The pools can be a little chilly during colder months
Best time to go
From April to June, and September to October, the climate is warm and the sights are less busy. Summers (July to August) are hot and busy in this region. That said, Lou Calen is a haven away from the masses. The hotel is closed for a month usually early Nov-early Dec.
Our top tips
There are lots of restaurants in the village, all easily walkable, so on a longer stay you can have quite a gastronomic experience. Picotte comes especially recommended.
The hotel provided chic straw sun hats for use during our stay - which was handy as we'd not brought any.
The hotel provided chic straw sun hats for use during our stay - which was handy as we'd not brought any.