Walk through the gates of Madame Les Vans in the southern Ardèche region of France, and you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve stepped into the pages of a magazine. And in a way you have – this gorgeous 19th-century building has featured in many an architectural glossy.
It’s not hard to see why. Every nook and corner of this lovingly refurbished retreat is ready for its close-up. Each of the five rooms is individually designed but creates a cohesive whole with the rest of the property – upcycled elegance and sumptuous comfort with a deliberate ramshackle aesthetic. There are a host of lovingly curated niches to explore, and in which to relax with a book or a glass of wine. But ultimately, everyone gravitates towards the 15-metre sanded concrete pool that nestles beneath the cypress, fig and olive trees and its adjacent foliage-cooled eating and changing area with swing daybed. The picturesque village of Les Vans, with its market, shops and restaurants, is a 10-minute stroll away, but the hotel is also ideally located as a base to explore the entire region and its ancient towns and vineyards and breathtaking landscape. Highlights include the Chauvet caves and kayaking through the natural arch Pont d’Arc. Be sure to bring a camera.
Highs
- It looks gorgeous, and the attention to detail is impressive. Custom-made furniture jostles with flea-market finds, recycled woods and objets d’art to create an achingly stylish retreat
- Location – there are myriad old villages and towns within easy driving distance, as well as the Ardèche region’s most spectacular scenery
- Relaxing in the gardens and poolside after a day out sightseeing is delightful
- Massages are available on request, as is a personal yoga trainer. Indeed, the entire place can be hired out for yoga retreats
Lows
- There’s no onsite bar or restaurant, but with a plethora of restaurants (some of them Michelin-starred) in nearby Les Vans, gourmands will be more than happy
- With a minimum age limit of 12 years, it won’t suit those with young families
- You'll need a car to get about
Best time to go
Summer starts early and May and June are recommended for those who really want to appreciate the outdoors. The days are long and sunny, but temperatures are low enough to be comfortable for walkers and bikers. July and August are much busier and hotter, although the area is never completely overrun with other tourists. After September temperatures quickly drop, but even the crisp winters are generally quite sunny. Madame Les Vans is closed Nov-March.
Our top tips
There’s no spa in the hotel but it’s well worth taking a trip to the nearby spa towns which are all within an hour’s drive. Dip in the volcanic springs of Neyrac-les-Bains, wallow in a mud bath at Saint Laurent-les-Bains (which claims to have France’s hottest springs) or refresh and revive in the curative cold-water springs at Vals-les-Bains.