Walk through the gates of Madame Les Vans in the southern Ardèche region of France, and you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve stepped into the pages of a magazine. And in a way you have – this gorgeous 19th-century building has featured in many an architectural glossy.
It’s not hard to see why. Every nook and corner of this lovingly refurbished retreat is ready for its close-up. Each of the five rooms is individually designed but creates a cohesive whole with the rest of the property – upcycled elegance and sumptuous comfort with a deliberate ramshackle aesthetic. There are a host of lovingly curated niches to explore, and in which to relax with a book or a glass of wine. But ultimately, everyone gravitates towards the 15-metre sanded concrete pool that nestles beneath the cypress, fig and olive trees and its adjacent foliage-cooled eating and changing area with swing daybed. The picturesque village of Les Vans, with its market, shops and restaurants, is a 10-minute stroll away, but the hotel is also ideally located as a base to explore the entire region and its ancient towns and vineyards and breathtaking landscape. Highlights include the Chauvet caves and kayaking through the natural arch Pont d’Arc. Be sure to bring a camera.
Highs
- It looks gorgeous, and the attention to detail is impressive. Custom-made furniture jostles with flea-market finds, recycled woods and objets d’art to create an achingly stylish retreat
- Location – there are myriad old villages and towns within easy driving distance, as well as the Ardèche region’s most spectacular scenery
- Relaxing in the gardens and poolside after a day out sightseeing is delightful
- Massages are available on request, as is a personal yoga trainer. Indeed, the entire place can be hired out for yoga retreats
Lows
- There’s no onsite bar or restaurant, but with a plethora of restaurants (some of them Michelin-starred) in nearby Les Vans, gourmands will be more than happy
- With a minimum age limit of 12 years, it won’t suit those with young families
- You'll need a car to get about
Best time to go
Summer starts early and May and June are recommended for those who really want to appreciate the outdoors. The days are long and sunny, but temperatures are low enough to be comfortable for walkers and bikers. July and August are much busier and hotter, although the area is never completely overrun with other tourists. After September temperatures quickly drop, but even the crisp winters are generally quite sunny. Madame Les Vans is closed Nov-March.
Our top tips
There’s no spa in the hotel but it’s well worth taking a trip to the nearby spa towns which are all within an hour’s drive. Dip in the volcanic springs of Neyrac-les-Bains, wallow in a mud bath at Saint Laurent-les-Bains (which claims to have France’s hottest springs) or refresh and revive in the curative cold-water springs at Vals-les-Bains.
- Boutique B&B
- 5 rooms
- Breakfast only, walk to restaurants
- Over 12s only
- Closed: 24 Nov 2024 - 31 Dec 2024
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Bicycles Available
- e-bicycles available
Rooms
There are five in total, each individually designed and suitable mainly for couples. All feature European queen-sized beds, Baralinge organic cotton bedlinen and separate Italian showers.
The largest is the Caramel Room – also known as the girlfriends’ room as it can accommodate four people – decorated in cream, chocolate and caramel. It overlooks the Rue des Bourgades in the village.
The other four Standard rooms are for couples. The Yellow Room is decorated in soft greys, brown marble, and gold upholstery, with vibrant pops coming from a few artful polka dots on the walls. The Black Room is decked in cream and features an entire wall with a monochrome mural of a garden. The Striped Room is in muted grey/green with splashes of colour coming from the caramel stripes on the wallpaper, and it overlooks the old ‘carmel’ (village orchard). The Green Room is perhaps the funkiest with a striking garden mural, corner couch, and olive walls and accessories.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Central heating
- Hairdryer
- Toiletries
- WiFi
Eating
We hear breakfast is a highlight. Taken in the verdant walled garden in good weather (or inside in the breakfast room with its pannier-adorned walls), at colourful tables with bright chairs, Pierre and Nathalie create simply delicious dishes on pretty patterned plates. Local produce is deployed to great effect – perhaps a fresh fruit salad, home-made marmalades, fresh bread, pastries such as croissants or pain au chocolats, fresh orange juice and sweet treats like apple or apricot pies.
Ardèche is renowned for its vineyards and produces excellent wines, including Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Vivarais. The area's terroir also yields fruits, such as cherries, apricots and chestnuts, which often feature in traditional dishes.
Local restaurants (auberges) are must-visits for those keen to experience authentic Ardèche cuisine. They’re often rustic, warm and inviting and offer traditional dishes such as Caillettes (meatballs), Cassoulet (bean stew with sausages and pork), and Crème de marrons (sweet chestnut cream). The more adventurous can try the region's hearty Tripoux (stuffed sheep's stomach). Additionally, Ardèche is famous for its goat cheeses, such as Picodon, which pairs delightfully with the local wines.
But Les Vans itself has many top-rated restaurants including the Michelin-starred Likoke, which is just a five-minute walk away; Nathalie and Pierre will advise on local options for you.
Features include:
- Breakfast
- Restaurants nearby
Activities
- This part of the world boasts stunning landscapes, the most famous of which are the Chassezac gorges, often referred to as the local Grand Canyon. Canoeing, paddling or rafting along Chassezac river with the limestone cliffs rearing on all sides is quite the spectacle; sport climbing is popular too
- The most impressive sights nearby are the natural arch Pont d'Arc, an impressive 59 metres across, and the Chauvet Caves, which contain some of the world's earliest known figurative paintings. Evidence of prehistoric inhabitants is seen in plentiful arrowheads and standing stones
- Ramblers and hikers should head to the Païolive Woods, a vast nature reserve filled with lush vegetation, wildlife such as eagles and falcons, and huge limestone statues carved by nature
- This is market country with almost all the local town squares packed with bustling stalls selling produce, wine, arts and crafts and antiques. The Les Vans market every Saturday morning has been voted second favourite market in the Auvergne Rhône-Alpes region, but there are others in Payzac, Bannes and Joyeuse, and a summer night market in Barjac
- Madame Les Vans also provides electric bikes to go town-hopping or explore the countryside – handy for an area with a lot of mountainous terrain
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Caves
- Climbing
- Cycling
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Kayaking
- Mountain biking
- Rafting
- Shopping / markets
- Swimming
- Yoga
Kids
Only children over 12 are allowed.
Best for:
Teens (over 12)
Family friendly accommodation:
The Caramel Room sleeps up to 4, so is the best bet for a family with teens.
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Madame Les Vans is located in the small market town of Les Vans, in the Ardèche region of southwest France.
By Air:
The nearest major airport is Montpellier, about 2 hours away, or Marseilles (2hr30m), but you can also fly to Nimes (98km) which is about an hour and a half away.
By Car:
Most will have a car to explore the region. Pick up a vehicle at any of the airports or rail stations. Check out our car rental recommendations.
By Train:
There are also trains from London to Les Vans, although this involves at least two changes and an average journey time of around 11 hours.
Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- Montpellier-Mediterranee 135.0 km MPL
- Marseille 180.0 km MRS
Other:
- Beach 136.0 km
- Shops 0.1 km
- Restaurant 0.5 km