Mama Ruisa
Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro City, Brazil
Reviewed by
Aidan Forestier-Walker
Up in the hills of Santa Teresa there's an alternative scene to Rio’s beach life. Here a more colourful village feel exists - one favoured by artists and musicians and quite a contrast to Copacabana’s 1960s tower blocks. You're also closer to the famous Lapa nightlife than if you stay down by the beaches. French owner Jean Michel Ruis picked a spot right in the heart of this boho district to turn what was once an aristocrat's colonial home into a one-off 8-bedroom boutique B&B.
From its elegant wrought-iron verandas you can breakfast with views of Sugarloaf Mountain, and the stained glass, tall wooden shutters, garden and pool all remain intact. Bedrooms now gain from crisp French fabrics and mod cons, but scattered memorabilia maintains a link with the past to when Flying Down to Rio was the film of the moment. With high ceilings, there's a bright and airy feel throughout. Perhaps loveliest of all is the living room - enormous, and decked out in an eclectic mix of contemporary and antique furniture that Jean Michel has picked out from galleries, auctions and markets around the world.
From its elegant wrought-iron verandas you can breakfast with views of Sugarloaf Mountain, and the stained glass, tall wooden shutters, garden and pool all remain intact. Bedrooms now gain from crisp French fabrics and mod cons, but scattered memorabilia maintains a link with the past to when Flying Down to Rio was the film of the moment. With high ceilings, there's a bright and airy feel throughout. Perhaps loveliest of all is the living room - enormous, and decked out in an eclectic mix of contemporary and antique furniture that Jean Michel has picked out from galleries, auctions and markets around the world.
Highs
- Comfortable, elegant and spacious interiors with a dash of French style; we loved the quirky décor
- You're in the heart of colourful Santa Teresa with its cobbled streets and authentic Brazilian restaurants
- Convenient for the nightlife of Lapa and trips to see Christ the Redeemer
- Personal service from the charming owner (assisted by resident dog Lilli and cat Mademoiselle), who can advise on Rio's quirkier, less touristy haunts
- With only 8 rooms and a walled garden, the feel is intimate and relaxed
Lows
- You'll need to take a taxi to get into town and the beach, but you can reach Ipanema within about 15 minutes
- During our last visit, some of the paintwork was a little tired and the pool lounger area was a little messy, but this was balanced out with the beautiful furnishings
- There's occasional traffic noise during the day, but it quietens down at night
- Breakfast isn't included in the rates
Best time to go
Visit at any time of year, but stay over a weekend for the best of the nightlife. February and New Year are best if you want to be around for Carnaval and the biggest parties; if not, these times are best avoided as prices soar and Rio is packed. July to September are the coolest months but also the driest. If you're here at the end of July, make the most of Santa Teresa's annual 3-day Open Door Arts Festival, when about 75 artists open their studios to visitors.
Our top tips
If you are interested in Brazilian art, design and architecture you are in the right place. The hotel features some stunning design classics, original pieces of art and is itself a fine example of a colonial mansion house. The living room is dotted with interesting pieces and there are a whole wealth of books on local artists and artisans. Jean-Michel is friends with some of the best local artists and will help arrange a visit to some of the galleries, or even to meet some of the artists and designers - a real treat.