Matarrana? Sure, I hadn't heard of the region either. Drive halfway from Barcelona to Valencia, cut inland through the mountains and you'll be getting close. It's easy to see why this corner of Teruel is being dubbed 'Spain's Tuscany'. This is a land of medieval villages, terraced vineyards, ancient bridleways and truffles growing beneath the oaks. Slow cooking is de rigueur whilst ancient groves of olives and almonds give the place an unmistakably Mediterranean hue.
Alasdair Grant - his family make the famous whisky - came here to film a documentary and left smitten. His rebirthing of a 17th-century masía - that's a stone-built farmhouse - left no stone unturned whilst his quest to marry comfort with authenticity was masterfully executed. Decoration weds South American and North African artefacts with family heirlooms from Scotland, whilst the Mediterranean cuisine is given an exotic twist by the Peruvian housekeepers, Luis and Jenny.
The building's cubist jumble is unforgettable when seen at night, and by day the vast views out to the forests and mountains take in no other building. Come for cosseted comfort, fine food and wines, outdoor pursuits, and for that delicious sense of being a voortrekker in a hauntingly beautiful swathe of eastern Spain.
Highs
- Available as a whole house rental, so suits couples wanting a romantic retreat, friends going hiking, extended families, or a big group (sleeps 10-20; self cater or be cooked for)
- Each bedroom is different, but all are equally lovely - we loved the beautiful four-poster bed in our Penarroya Room
- The warm welcome from Luis, who treats you like an old friend and takes a genuine interest in helping you make the most of the area
- The walking trails of the Matarrana are wild and wonderful yet remain blissfully undiscovered
- The great outdoors: hike through a stunning gorge, swim in a natural turquoise lake or under the El Salt waterfall, fish in mountain streams, kayak, horse ride and hunt for fossils
Lows
- Remote. No nightlife or buzzy villages on your doorstep and the nearest decent restaurants are a 30-minute drive - but that's half the point
- The lunches and dinners are delicious, but dining in could quickly add up; guests can use the fridge and kitchen to store and make snacks
- The track to the house is bumpy and windy, plus it can become rutted in winter so you'll need a 4x4; at any other time you'll be fine in a normal hire car
- A 7-night minimum stay for private rentals
- You may not get to meet Mas de la Serra's genial owner, Alasdair Grant, who travels the world producing documentaries
Best time to go
Matarrana has a Mediterranean climate and is pleasant all year, but the best months to visit (in terms of warmest weather and least rain) are May-July.
Our top tips
Ensconce yourself on the top terrace at the end of the day for an unforgettable sundowner or stargaze after nightfall: with no light pollution, night skies here need be seen to be believed.
This part of eastern Spain saw a lot of action during the Spanish Civil War, when the Nationalists and Republicans slogged it out along the Teruel front. Read all about it in George Orwell's Homage to Catalonia, and get hold of a copy of Ken Loach's film Land and Freedom: much of the action was filmed just down the road.
This part of eastern Spain saw a lot of action during the Spanish Civil War, when the Nationalists and Republicans slogged it out along the Teruel front. Read all about it in George Orwell's Homage to Catalonia, and get hold of a copy of Ken Loach's film Land and Freedom: much of the action was filmed just down the road.