Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
A short drive up a winding road to the hills above the stunning town of Noto brings you to the remote and incredibly tranquil 'Farmhouse of Olives'. You enter through a cool, dark archway where, on our visit, an old dog slept peacefully in the shade.
The 19th-century farmhouse is built around a baglio (courtyard), with an old olive tree providing shade. The reception, restaurant and breakfast room are off this central space, with the accommodation in newly built blocks across the lawn. Modern edges are softened by the dusky pink colour of the walls and the jasmine, honeysuckle and rose plants climbing up the sides. Across the lawn is the beautiful infinity pool: semi-circular and surrounded by sun loungers shaded by olive trees. Simple, comfy rooms have high beamed ceilings; some are triples, which will suit families. But it's the setting which makes it: you're in the depths of nature, with Sicily's most spectacular river gorge and one of her loveliest Baroque towns both on your doorstep.
The 19th-century farmhouse is built around a baglio (courtyard), with an old olive tree providing shade. The reception, restaurant and breakfast room are off this central space, with the accommodation in newly built blocks across the lawn. Modern edges are softened by the dusky pink colour of the walls and the jasmine, honeysuckle and rose plants climbing up the sides. Across the lawn is the beautiful infinity pool: semi-circular and surrounded by sun loungers shaded by olive trees. Simple, comfy rooms have high beamed ceilings; some are triples, which will suit families. But it's the setting which makes it: you're in the depths of nature, with Sicily's most spectacular river gorge and one of her loveliest Baroque towns both on your doorstep.
Highs
- Peaceful, rural location and an idyllic setting amongst olive and carob trees
- Fantastic large infinity pool for those hot summer days (it can reach 40C in these parts) and a trio of shallow plunge pools
- A good base for exploring Noto (a Unesco World Heritage site), Siracusa and Ragusa, plus the gorge of Cava Grande and the sandy beaches of the Vendicari Nature Reserve
- Some excellent Sicilian wines on offer in the cantina, plus a sophisticated dinner menu
- Friendly, discreet service
Lows
- The hotel is very remote and only accessible by car; there's no public transport up from Noto (8km / 15 minutes' drive away) and you'll want to arrive in daylight first time round
- Rooms - by our high standards - verge on the bland
Best time to go
The hotel is normally open from March to November. We visited in late May, when the colourful spring flowers were in full bloom. Sicily gets extremely hot in July and August, so it may be more pleasant to go in early or late summer, though all rooms have air conditioning. Autumn visits are also possible: local towns are less crowded, and the sea is often still warm enough for swimming.
Our top tips
Drive 10 minutes up the road - or hire bikes from the hotel - to explore the old hilltop fortress and ruined town of Noto Antica. Little survived the 1693 earthquake apart from the city walls, but the site and the spring flowers are stunning.