Reviewed by
Nadine Mellor
Guido Coffa felt his heart leap when he first saw Monaci delle Terre Nere in 2007, a run-down 62-acre 18th-century estate where monks once coaxed vineyards from the black volcanic earth and views stretch from Mt Etna to the Ionian Sea. He was actually looking to buy a small house to return to Sicily after years away as an automobile engineer but instead found his life's work. A decade on, the land and original Baroque house have been transformed by extensive landscaping, planting and a singular makeover into a classy and intimate hotel, perfect for foodies, romantics and families alike.
Guido, a qualified sommelier, has become an evangelist for organic agriculture, regional produce and sustainable living. Sicilian breakfasts feature home-baked breads and eggs from the resident chickens; dinners are an impressive showcase of fresh, local produce from the estate. Guido has exquisite taste, as evidenced by the bold industrial-chic bar and the lovely suites and villas in the main house and renovated outbuildings. Interiors are decorated with British-Brazilian artist Olivier Mourao, modern Italian furnishings by Flos, Lago, Gervasoni or B&B Italia and Guido's own personal collection of antiques, reclaimed pieces and art. We loved it.
Guido, a qualified sommelier, has become an evangelist for organic agriculture, regional produce and sustainable living. Sicilian breakfasts feature home-baked breads and eggs from the resident chickens; dinners are an impressive showcase of fresh, local produce from the estate. Guido has exquisite taste, as evidenced by the bold industrial-chic bar and the lovely suites and villas in the main house and renovated outbuildings. Interiors are decorated with British-Brazilian artist Olivier Mourao, modern Italian furnishings by Flos, Lago, Gervasoni or B&B Italia and Guido's own personal collection of antiques, reclaimed pieces and art. We loved it.
Highs
- Conveniently located between Catania and Taormina, and close to both Mt Etna National Park and the coast
- Beautifully realised eco-hotel whose wonderful grounds have been rejuvenated with olive trees, vineyards, orchards, vegetable gardens and lawns, plus an 18m infinity pool and chill-out areas
- Delicious food and wine sourced from the Etna region and the estate itself
- 500m above sea level so enjoys terrific views, and is a shade cooler in sweltering summers
- Quietly charismatic and hands-on owner; charming staff
Lows
- Availability can be a problem in high season
- You'll need to hire a car to get here and around. Note there are lots of small, winding lanes in the area, but the journey from Catania is straightforward
- Wines are wonderful but expensive; evening meals can be on the pricier side too, but ingredients are high quality
- Since our last visit the estate has expanded, and we have yet to see the latest additions
- Most rooms are located around 300m from the main building, and Sontuoso (a Pool Villa) is also up a 70m staircase