
Reviewed by
Robyn Hodson
Castiglioncello del Trinoro is about as close to picture-perfect as any medieval hamlet you’ll find in Tuscany. What makes this one interesting is that it had lain dormant for decades until 2005, when Michael Cioffi, an American lawyer visiting his Italian ancestral roots, decided to buy and renovate the old buildings (some dating back as far as the 14th century).
Now a 18-room hotel and a trio of meticulously restored village houses for 4-12, the village forms a peaceful haven, although there are a few private homes dotted around. Above all, it’s a place for romance and relaxation; I recall standing in my suite enjoying the cool stone floor under my bare feet, while my other half threw open the windows. The white linen curtains billowed as the sweet scent of jasmine drifted up from the pergola beneath, and the pleasing tinkle of wine glasses and cutlery from the restaurant held the promise of a long, lazy lunch on one of the shady outdoor terraces, flanked by colourful gardens alive with lavender, pink valeria, climbing roses, silvery olive trees and tiny erigeron. Far below, towering cypress trees stood sentry along bendy country roads, red poppies danced in golden fields, and sweeping vistas extended out over the breathtaking Unesco-listed Val d’Orcia. Unforgettable.
Now a 18-room hotel and a trio of meticulously restored village houses for 4-12, the village forms a peaceful haven, although there are a few private homes dotted around. Above all, it’s a place for romance and relaxation; I recall standing in my suite enjoying the cool stone floor under my bare feet, while my other half threw open the windows. The white linen curtains billowed as the sweet scent of jasmine drifted up from the pergola beneath, and the pleasing tinkle of wine glasses and cutlery from the restaurant held the promise of a long, lazy lunch on one of the shady outdoor terraces, flanked by colourful gardens alive with lavender, pink valeria, climbing roses, silvery olive trees and tiny erigeron. Far below, towering cypress trees stood sentry along bendy country roads, red poppies danced in golden fields, and sweeping vistas extended out over the breathtaking Unesco-listed Val d’Orcia. Unforgettable.
Highs
- Rustic yet sophisticated rooms, many with double showers or in-room bathtubs big enough for 2 – perfect for loved-up couples
- The swish 2-6 bedrooms village houses are great for groups and families, with full kitchens and extras like wine cellars or steam rooms
- The restaurant's locally sourced dishes will delight food-lovers. There's also a bar and an enoteca where you can sample 32 different wines
- We loved the infinity pool and deck – an idyllic place to watch the sunset with a rosemary martini
- The heavenly rose-scented spa – don't miss its outdoor soaking tubs and indoor heated pool
Lows
- It's pricey, but luxury like this rarely comes cheap
- A car is essential if you want to explore the local area (Montepulciano, Siena and Pienza are within easy reach), and the roads leading to the village are all gravel
- Most rooms don’t have air-con but the hilltop breeze means they’re extremely well ventilated
- The car park is a 5-minute walk from the entrance, though you can drop bags at reception first
Best time to go
The quietest time of year is the end of May and early June, when the weather is warming up and the countryside is bursting into flower. August to late September marks the busy season, but it’s the best time for guaranteed hot weather. Local towns can get quite crowded during summer, but Monteverdi is a peaceful retreat with cooling hilltop breezes.
Our top tips
Ask the staff for local recommendations - often the smaller towns have more authentic food and atmosphere, as they aren’t catering to hoards of tourists. A pizza in Siena’s main square is disappointing compared to one made fresh in Pienza or Montepulciano. Things are also far pricier in the larger towns, so try gelati and shop for wine and cheese elsewhere.
Stay off the main highways and take the smaller back roads for beautiful views - and less of the crazy Italian driving!
Stay off the main highways and take the smaller back roads for beautiful views - and less of the crazy Italian driving!