Munduk Moding Plantation
near Gobleg, Pemuteran & North Bali, Indonesia
Ocean views and infinity pools - so far, so Bali. Yet Munduk Moding dances to the beat of its own drum: a laid-back eco-lodge in the midst of a working coffee plantation, with a gourmet restaurant and pools cantilevered over jungle-clad ravines. Up here in the hills above the peaceful north coast, they do things a little differently.
You may not see your room at first: the suites and villas (with 1-5 bedrooms) are scattered apart for privacy and buried deep in greenery. Temperatures are cooler at this remote hill station, and sometimes it’s swaddled in will-o'-the-wisp clouds; on a clear day, though, the views sweep down the plunging landscape to the Java Sea below. Those who venture to northern Bali are already an adventurous crowd and, with the local village heavily involved and the plantation largely self-sufficient (the marigold garlands, fruit and the coffee at breakfast are all grown on site), this is a taster of the island before mass tourism. Couples seeking seclusion, families after jungle thrills, singles on retreat - there’s quite literally room for all.
You may not see your room at first: the suites and villas (with 1-5 bedrooms) are scattered apart for privacy and buried deep in greenery. Temperatures are cooler at this remote hill station, and sometimes it’s swaddled in will-o'-the-wisp clouds; on a clear day, though, the views sweep down the plunging landscape to the Java Sea below. Those who venture to northern Bali are already an adventurous crowd and, with the local village heavily involved and the plantation largely self-sufficient (the marigold garlands, fruit and the coffee at breakfast are all grown on site), this is a taster of the island before mass tourism. Couples seeking seclusion, families after jungle thrills, singles on retreat - there’s quite literally room for all.
Highs
- Beautiful landscapes: walk through the plantation, hike through monkey-filled forest, horse-ride to lakes
- A superb restaurant - the tasting menus are outstanding
- Two incredible infinity pools that melt into the sky; many villas have private pools and hot tubs, too
- Genuine authenticity: it's run hand-in-hand with the nearby village and hosts dance performances by local kids
- Massages and treatments to help you unwind; sessions with a traditional healer can be arranged, too
Lows
- The sprawling, 12-acre site means getting to the pool and restaurant can involve relatively lengthy, hilly walks
- There are free daytime shuttles for excursions, but the remote location means you’re far from the action
- Eating in-house is really the only viable option
- Quite a distance from the coast but you're here to be here and experience a different side of Bali
- The weather’s cooler in the hills, and clouds and rain are always a possibility
Best time to go
July to September is peak season in Bali, and with cooler temperatures here than on the coast, the weather is ideal. October to April is rainy season - expect heavy showers and mist-swathed hills (though this lends a certain romance). Our preference would be for the shoulder season (we visited in May), when the island is less crowded and the weather is largely sunny. The coffee harvest takes place in July and August, and guest participation is encouraged.
Our top tips
Don’t miss the Sunday night traditional dance recitals. Cheesy as they may sound, the hotel is heavily involved in the local community (it provides dance and martial arts lessons for the school) and the performers are beaming kids proudly displaying their moves.