Puri Ganesha Villas
Pemuteran & North Bali, Indonesia
Reviewed by
Aidan Forestier-Walker
You go against the grain when you stay at Puri Ganesha. For a start it's situated on the island's unspoilt north coast. A stunning drive across the mountains takes you far from the hordes. Its 4 large villas are set back a stone's throw from the calm sea in the sleepy village of Pemuteran. Each is enchantingly styled thanks to English owner Diana von Cranach. Bold and eccentric she may be, but it's her imagination and originality that makes this place such a one off: each villa is a home filled with carefully chosen pieces from her many travels.
You'll have your own smiling staff (who also make great babysitters), private pool and grounds, and the restaurant's delicious organic food is some of the best on the island. The extent of Diana’s vitality stretches from arranging shopping trips on nearby Java or special yoga and detox weeks, to picking guests up by Harley from the airport. Late night stories of spirits, lost loves, and past lives won't keep you awake due to the deep sense of peace created in this magical place. This is one of our favourites.
You'll have your own smiling staff (who also make great babysitters), private pool and grounds, and the restaurant's delicious organic food is some of the best on the island. The extent of Diana’s vitality stretches from arranging shopping trips on nearby Java or special yoga and detox weeks, to picking guests up by Harley from the airport. Late night stories of spirits, lost loves, and past lives won't keep you awake due to the deep sense of peace created in this magical place. This is one of our favourites.
Highs
- One of our all-time favourites: peace and seclusion of your own private villa, pool and gardens far away from bustling crowds
- Tons of space - huge master bedrooms, vast outdoor bathrooms and your own decent-sized pool (you get twice the space of a 5 star resort for about half the price)
- Decor unlike anything else on Bali - Diana refers to it as shabby-chic - creates sublimely restful and unpretentious atmosphere
- Delicious organic food served in your villa or the informal restaurant; and innovative healthy eating holidays
- The phenomenon that is Diana von Cranach - tour de force, bon raconteur. Her tales of spirits, previous lives and Egyptology are only the tip of the iceberg
Lows
- The beach has black volcanic sand that leads to exposed reef so to swim you'll need to walk further up shore
- Don't expect power showers and flat screen TVs - think imaginative rustic chic and low-key luxury rather than swanky glitz
- Passers-by occasionally stray into the grounds but are soon seen off by Diana's dalmatian dogs
- There aren't any restaurants nearby, but you wouldn't want to eat out anyway
Best time to go
Any time of year. Bali's wet season runs from November to March, but the North Coast is much drier and when it rains it tends to be in short but heavy bursts which makes for a more lush landscape at this time of year. Bali is busiest in June and July, Christmas, New Year and Chinese New Year.
Our top tips
Most people stay for at least 3 nights, but we'd recommend staying for a week or longer to unwind, enjoy the relaxing villa surroundings and go on some of Diana's great excursions, such as the 2 night Walter Spies Adventure tour around Bali.