Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
Rustic and rural, this forest retreat was inspired by the spirit of the African continent – Muxima is Kimbundu, an Angolan dialect, for 'heart'. It could not have been more aptly named. This is a place that is infused with care and genuine eco leanings.
Two single-storey casas are wrapped within a 28-hectare strand of cork and eucalyptus forest, and wildflowers carpet the forest floor. The air is beautifully scented by the trees and the entire retreat is accessed via a winding, stoney track. Since our initial visit, numerous members of the i-escape team have opted to return summer after summer and every time we've been greeted with boundless energy from the friendly dogs, easy, gentle smiles from the staff and warming sun rays from the southern Portuguese sky. All of this sets the tone just perfectly: Muxima eschews hotel-like uniformity in favour of the homespun and the organic. Expect serenity, a spacious colourful room, a child-friendly ethic and an opportunity to really get back in touch with nature.
Two single-storey casas are wrapped within a 28-hectare strand of cork and eucalyptus forest, and wildflowers carpet the forest floor. The air is beautifully scented by the trees and the entire retreat is accessed via a winding, stoney track. Since our initial visit, numerous members of the i-escape team have opted to return summer after summer and every time we've been greeted with boundless energy from the friendly dogs, easy, gentle smiles from the staff and warming sun rays from the southern Portuguese sky. All of this sets the tone just perfectly: Muxima eschews hotel-like uniformity in favour of the homespun and the organic. Expect serenity, a spacious colourful room, a child-friendly ethic and an opportunity to really get back in touch with nature.
Highs
- An eco-retreat with a genuine 'bush' feel – the eco-swimming pool comes complete with dragonflies, lily pads and lots of frogs
- A great place for families; with play areas, animals and expansive space for exploring, plus owners Paula and Jelle have four sociable little ones who appreciate new playmates
- As serene and bucolic a setting as you could hope to find, yet an easy drive from wonderful beaches and small towns
- The chance for kids, and adults, to look to the forest and the beach for entertainment, rather than to TV
- Great breakfasts held in a beach-shack-like casita, with stacks of local and homemade goodies
Lows
- Not for those seeking luxury items: no speakers or flatscreen TVs, and WiFi in the guest lounge only. Of course, this will be a plus for some
- Breakfast is the only meal on offer: you'll need to head down to Aljezur for other meals (or self-cater if you're in one of the suites)
- Don't expect instant service but do count on TLC from your hosts
- Reduced window openings are cool in summer but make the bedrooms quite dark – though each room boasts an expansive terrace
Best time to go
Muxima's proximity to the Atlantic means that they experience milder winters and cooler summers than further inland, providing you with a good base year round. That said, a strong wind can blow in from the ocean. During July and August, things get busy and local beaches are far more crowded, especially with surfers. In May, June, September and October you're bound to see plenty of sunshine and you just may get the sand all to yourself.
Our top tips
Look out for the beaches at the river estuary - accessible from Praia da Amoreira - where you'll find warm, gentle water and soft sand without the dangerous pull of the breakers on the larger surfer beaches.