Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
When you think of Greece, chances are you picture a turquoise bay bobbing with fishing boats, a sandy beach with a couple of table-in-the-sand tavernas, a sprinkling of white-cube houses. One of them - perhaps at the top of the village - has some stylishly simple suites, maybe a patio with views of rugged hills and island-studded horizons; if you're lucky, there's a glistening azure pool flanked by oversized lanterns and inviting daybeds. The sun shines, there are boat trips to secluded coves, wild flowers in spring, fresh grilled fish at dinner, fresh squeezed OJ at breakfast.
Hidden above the pretty fishing village of Kini on the west coast of Syros, Pino di Loto ticks all these boxes, and a few more. First off, it's all done with a touch of class: the just-baked croissants and loose leaf green teas at breakfast, generously tiered outdoor spaces (patios, pool-bar, pergola), a small Jacuzzi, and salvaged mirror frames in the all-white suites - and all for a maximum of 16 guests. The service, from multilingual young live wire Terezdina, is also a cut above; nothing is too much trouble. And Syros itself is something of a hidden gem: overlooked by most foreign visitors, though popular with Athenians in high summer. The northwest hides some of the Cyclades' loveliest little beaches, accessible by boat from Kini; Ermoupolis, too, is a real eye-opener, with its grandiose Neoclassical buildings, opulent churches and labyrinthine hill quarter of Ano Syros.
Hidden above the pretty fishing village of Kini on the west coast of Syros, Pino di Loto ticks all these boxes, and a few more. First off, it's all done with a touch of class: the just-baked croissants and loose leaf green teas at breakfast, generously tiered outdoor spaces (patios, pool-bar, pergola), a small Jacuzzi, and salvaged mirror frames in the all-white suites - and all for a maximum of 16 guests. The service, from multilingual young live wire Terezdina, is also a cut above; nothing is too much trouble. And Syros itself is something of a hidden gem: overlooked by most foreign visitors, though popular with Athenians in high summer. The northwest hides some of the Cyclades' loveliest little beaches, accessible by boat from Kini; Ermoupolis, too, is a real eye-opener, with its grandiose Neoclassical buildings, opulent churches and labyrinthine hill quarter of Ano Syros.
Highs
- With just 6 rooms and Terezdina's really personal touch, it feels just like staying with friends
- Each suite has a sitting room as well as a kitchenette; and the X_ecutive suites (if you can get past the name!) are truly spoiling, with private plunge pools
- It's just a short walk to Kini's seaside restaurants, including sublime Tzitzikia which will make you rethink Greek cuisine
- Just an hour by boat from Mykonos (direct flights from Europe), not much more from Tinos, Paros and Naxos; or you can fly here from Athens in a little prop jet
Lows
- These are more like serviced apartments than hotel proper; there's no indoor sitting area for example
- Syros is not Greece's prettiest island: the south is dotted with summer villas, there's a working shipyard - but the north is wonderfully wild, Kini is sweet and Ermoupolis is impressive
- It's not right on the beach but a 5-10 mins' walk above Kini and Loto, both sandy and sheltered, with parasols and eateries
- Children and young teens are not accepted (guests must be 15 or over)
Best time to go
As with most Cyclades islands, the best times to visit Syros are between May and September, but avoiding, if possible, the month of August (and July to a certain extent), which can get very busy with holidaying Athenians. If you come in April or October, be prepared for some chilly evenings, and don't count on using the pool or local boat service.
Our top tips
The island is small enough, and taxis cheap and plentiful enough, that you can easily manage without a hire car. This also allows you to explore without having to retrace your steps to your car. For example, for Ano Syros, have the taxi drop you at the top by the windmills, and walk down, stopping for a coffee at Lily's, the bouzouki bar where rembetiko legend Markos Vamvakaris sang his way to fame. At the town hall, head left to Vaporia district for the opulent church of St. Nikolaos, then end up at the harbour front taxi rank.