Rebali Riads
Sidi Kaouki, Essaouira & Atlantic Coast, Morocco

Reviewed by
Nadine Mellor
Sidi Kaouki has become one of the most popular yet under-the-radar villages in Morocco. Surfing aficionados of every form, including kite and wind, flock to this laid-back spot for the reliable Atlantic winds which create perfect breaks, in a metronomic manner, onto its long sandy beach.
Our perfect break, however, did not involve surfing in any form. We had washed up here to stay at this unique riad set-up. It consists of a terrace of 6 serviced riads, with a heated lap pool, large lawn, tennis court and hammam alongside. The 4 larger riads also have private swimming pools and walled gardens. All work brilliantly for families, with full kitchens, though all meals can be cooked for you, and there are restaurants nearby. Interiors have warm Moroccan hues set against clean white walls, huge lamps hanging from triple-height ceilings, and lanterns at dusk. Days went swimmingly: a camel ride up the beach to a delicious fish restaurant, a spot of ping-pong, a deep massage. Memorably, we also visited a local Berber lady in her home for a simply delicious tagine. At day's end we ascended to our roof terrace for the sunset, devoured a wonderful dinner, then relaxed fireside in cosy comfort. A perfect break indeed.
Our perfect break, however, did not involve surfing in any form. We had washed up here to stay at this unique riad set-up. It consists of a terrace of 6 serviced riads, with a heated lap pool, large lawn, tennis court and hammam alongside. The 4 larger riads also have private swimming pools and walled gardens. All work brilliantly for families, with full kitchens, though all meals can be cooked for you, and there are restaurants nearby. Interiors have warm Moroccan hues set against clean white walls, huge lamps hanging from triple-height ceilings, and lanterns at dusk. Days went swimmingly: a camel ride up the beach to a delicious fish restaurant, a spot of ping-pong, a deep massage. Memorably, we also visited a local Berber lady in her home for a simply delicious tagine. At day's end we ascended to our roof terrace for the sunset, devoured a wonderful dinner, then relaxed fireside in cosy comfort. A perfect break indeed.
Highs
- Immaculately kept and efficiently run by Mohamed, Fatima and their excellent concierge team
- A very flexible set-up, with riads of various sizes; or you can just take a room or suite in quieter months
- Delicious food served in your riad at the time and place of your choosing - plus complimentary afternoon tea with yummy homemade cakes!
- A great range of activities both on-site and nearby, including the beach a 2-minute stroll away
- An impressive commitment to investing in the local economy, including financial support for the village school
Lows
- Be aware that Sidi Kaouki is a tiny place with just a handful of cafés and restaurants; for a wider choice, head into Essaouira (25 mins’ drive)
- School holidays fill up way in advance (and no wonder, this is our favourite family bolthole around Essaouira); book early
- We found the swimming pools a little chilly, even though they're heated in the winter months; note that there's an additional charge for heating the private pools in the three three-bed villas
- We have yet to see the latest addition, Dar Jamila, in person, although it looks terrific
Best time to go
As you're close to the coast, the local winds will temper some of the heat in summer, but the best times to visit remain spring and autumn, and we really enjoyed soaking up some winter sun on our February visit.
Our top tips
We loved star gazing from our roof terrace (you get given a star map on arrival) and got up before dawn to see Jupiter, Saturn and Mars in an ecliptic line, as well as Scorpio, Sirius and the Southern Cross. Heavenly!