In my time reviewing hotels I've often come across 'years of painstaking renovation', 'wonderful craftsmanship' and the 'unique design details' deployed in the creation of a 'vibrant work of art' by a 'visionary owner'. And then I stayed at Salut Maroc!.
British designer Helen Howat, passionate about Arabian design and Moroccan architecture (she worked in the Middle East for years), acquired an 18th-century riad - formerly a Jewish merchant house then a consulate - and spent 5 years on its ambitious transformation. Her contemporary reinvention of traditional crafts meant incorporating Islamic patterns, stunning vintage pieces, clashing yet sumptuous upholstery and dazzlingly intricate tilework. The ground floor has a bespoke 54-panel wall-hanging beside mid-century modern furniture and a sunken library in shades of flame. Ascend the staircase - each riser painted differently - to 2 blue floors housing a hammam and 10 fabulous rooms inspired by Moroccan cities. At the top is the romantic rooftop dining terrace with magnificent ocean views. Artwork ranges from note-perfect kitsch paintings to Berber wall art. And, this isn't just a design showcase, it all actually works! Rooms are supremely comfortable and calming, there's plentiful hot water for the signature copper bathtubs, the food is delicious, and the ambiance is delightful.
Highs
- Great location in Essaouira's Unesco-listed medina overlooking the Skala du Port (bastion) and the Atlantic
- Breathtaking and unique restoration, everything fashioned to a very high standard; interior design buffs will be in heaven
- Lovely helpful staff
- Extraordinarily beautiful bedrooms and bathrooms, each individually decorated; good value for the high quality
- Wonderful rooftop restaurant and bar with live music and fabulous ocean views
- A vibrant and fun hangout for cool couples, but very welcoming to families, too
Lows
- Most rooms are fairly compact; don't expect much by way of wardrobes or floor space for luggage
- Bathrooms don't have showers, only big copper bathtubs with handheld shower heads
- Steep winding stairs up to the roof terrace; there's no lift (to be expected in an old riad)
- Fairly loud music is played throughout the hotel well into the evening, so bring earplugs if you intend to retire early
- Boutique Hotel
- 10 rooms
- Restaurant open daily
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Pool
- Steam Room
- Beach Nearby
- Babysitting
- Creche / Kids Club
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Rooftop terrace, ground-floor reception
Rooms
On the first and second floors, 10 rooms and suites dazzle and delight. All have blissful beds, one-off vintage pieces and high painted ceilings. Instead of showers, the bathrooms feature signature copper bathtubs with handheld shower heads. Pricing is determined by size and view.
The green and white zellige tiles in Fez are inspired by roofs in that ancient city. The sunburst effect in Marrakesh pays homage to tannery leather dye vats. Palmeraie has art deco patterns evoking fairytale palm trees.
Berber has a wistful portrait of Princess Aisha plus tribal patterns in lamps and walls, while Maghreb has a stone-arched harem, now a small living area, and shocking pink fabrics. First-floor Safi, where we stayed, is a blues fantasy across bedroom and a salon.
For that coveted sea view, Mogador has an ocean and fishing boat-inspired design. Both Boudoir and Tangier have flamboyant Orientalist-style oil paintings; the latter also has a private sitting area. The biggest of all, Casablanca, overlooks the ramparts and showcases traditional Moroccan tilework across 2 rooms.
Features include:
- Bathrobes
- Hairdryer
- Safe box
- Toiletries
- WiFi
Eating
A relaxed affair, breakfast is taken on the roof terrace; if the weather less than clement you'll be in the adjacent dining room. We enjoyed mushroom one-pot omelettes, Moroccan pancakes, croissants, jams and honey, freshly squeezed juices, and excellent coffee (the best of our entire trip), gazing out over the ever-changing Atlantic.
For lunch or dinner head out to any number of eateries nearby. Or stay in for the freshest of fish (think grilled sea bass and succulent crab), tasty tagines and Moroccan sides. On our most recent visit, we really liked the seabream tagine, and the kids loved the crispy monkfish burger and zingy passionfruit mocktails. Food and drinks (including cocktails, wine and beer) are available all day. Most evenings there are live musicians to add to the laid-back and stylish atmosphere.
Features include:
- Bar
- Breakfast
- Restaurant
- Restaurants nearby
- Vegetarian options
Activities
- Step out and you're in the souks; there's a nice wood carver and his wares diagonally across the laneway
- Stroll along the sea wall for ocean views, checking the dates of the cannons, and finish up at Skala du Port, Essaouira's much-photographed bastion
- The fish market is a feast for the senses
- Learn to kite- or windsurf on the main beach
- Rachida and her team can arrange local tours and expeditions
- Back at the hotel there's a hammam (perfectly tiled, natch); you get a free 30-minute session for booking through i-escape, or the full hour-long scrub is highly recommended. You can have a massage in-room, too
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Historical sites
- Kitesurfing
- Private guided tours
- Shopping / markets
- Surfing
- Windsurfing
Best Time to go
Essaouira is an all-year destination. Winter sees a magical light and winter sunshine, although it can rain, of course. Spring and autumn are popular. Summers can be very windy and hot.
Our Top Tips
Do make sure to have drinks on the roof terrace for that magical light over the ocean as the sun goes down.
Location
Salut Maroc! is in heart of Essaouira's medina on Morocco's Atlantic coast.
By Air:
Fly into Essaouira (25 minutes' taxi) or Marrakech (185km / 2hr45m hours' drive), or Agadir Agadir (200km/3hr30m drive).
From the Airport
Salut Maroc! can organise a transfer from all airports. We don't think it necessary but if you want to hire a car here are our rental recommendations.
Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape. 
More on getting to Morocco and getting around
Airports:
- Essaouira 17.0 km ESU
- Marrakech 185.0 km RAK
Other:
- Beach 0.2 km
- Shops 0.1 km
- Restaurant 0.1 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 5 independent reviews from i-escape guests
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape