Satri House
Ban That Luang Village, Luang Prabang & North, Laos
Reviewed by
Kate Hall
Satri House sits gracefully amongst lush gardens, out of the centre but in easy walking distance of the famous night market and the town's intricate Buddhist wats. Its understated splendor is reminiscent of its royal past; in the early 1900s it was the residence of Prince Souphanavong, and its main building is a Unesco-listed Heritage House. Today it is one of Laos' most enticing small hotels. The gentle blend of colonial architecture, graceful décor and eccentricity is down to owner Mrs Lamphoune's exquisite taste - her treasure trove of antique rugs, art and ceramics decorates the hotel.
The fragrant gardens, secret sofa-d terraces and pretty lily pond enchant guests as they arrive, but the quirks and hidden spaces are not just for show; they instill a sense of peace. Satri House never feels full, even when it is. The 31 rooms and suites are spacious and luxurious, with four-poster beds, billowing white curtains and polished wood floors. At night, thick wooden shutters ensure a blissful sleep, essential if you want to rise at dawn to see the famous alms-giving ceremony. Later, the hotel's crisp pools invite you to cool off before snoozing under fanciful white parasols in the garden.
The fragrant gardens, secret sofa-d terraces and pretty lily pond enchant guests as they arrive, but the quirks and hidden spaces are not just for show; they instill a sense of peace. Satri House never feels full, even when it is. The 31 rooms and suites are spacious and luxurious, with four-poster beds, billowing white curtains and polished wood floors. At night, thick wooden shutters ensure a blissful sleep, essential if you want to rise at dawn to see the famous alms-giving ceremony. Later, the hotel's crisp pools invite you to cool off before snoozing under fanciful white parasols in the garden.
Highs
- The décor is remarkably beautiful and authentic
- You're away from the tourists but you can easily walk into town, which is a pleasure in itself, or there are bicycles to borrow
- The bedrooms are spacious; the beds superbly comfortable
- An airy spa with high-ceilinged treatment rooms, traditional massages and a herbal steam room
- The hotel sits just outside the protected zone, so is allowed 2 swimming pools - a rarity in Luang Prabang
Lows
- Rates don't include 20% tax, and spa treatments are expensive
- The restaurant lacks atmosphere in the evening as most people eat out in Luang Prabang, though the food here is good
Best time to go
Luang Prabang can be visited year-round, but high season traditionally starts in November and ends in March; this is the dry season. If you are not keen on the heat, avoid April and May. The rainy season is June to late October - hot, humid and wet, especially in June-July; but Luang Prabang gets much less rain than Vientiane. In our opinion, October is a great time to travel as everywhere is lush. The weather in November is traditionally very good, but it’s the busiest month by far.
Our top tips
Laos is not particularly conservative when it comes to dress code, but pack a long-sleeved shirt and trousers so you can cover up when visiting temples.