The Apsara Rive Droite
Luang Prabang & North, Laos
Reviewed by
Harriet Whiting
The Apsara Rive Droite quite literally sets itself apart from Luang Prabang, via the wide, fast-flowing Nam Khan River. Luckily, the hotel's wooden boat is on-hand to ferry you back and forth, which gives you a gorgeous first glimpse of the residence, encased by organic gardens and huge palms. The bamboo steps up from shore are a bit of a hike, but the pay-off is a luxurious ambiance, very much like that of a private villa, with the bonus of excellent service.
This second project by Ivan Scholte (the first, sophisticated The Apsara is across the river), is a more refined undertaking, and is filled with Ivan’s favourite pieces from his travels: glass Buddhas, glowing Vietnamese lanterns, and designer wallpaper from Sussex. The 9 bedrooms are airy, vastly comfortable affairs with French doors leading to terraces overlooking the pool. This long sliver of emerald water is sublime and quite the envy of the neighbours on the peninsula, where Heritage laws prohibit pools.
Don’t get too horizontal, however, as Luang Prabang, a Unesco-listed city, offers a huge amount; we loved its flower-filled streets with ornate temples at every turn. It’s unbelievably picturesque, with traditional Lao businesses sitting harmoniously alongside upmarket restaurants, and Buddhist culture pervading the spas, boutiques and galleries. And this is the perfect base to dip in and out of it all.
This second project by Ivan Scholte (the first, sophisticated The Apsara is across the river), is a more refined undertaking, and is filled with Ivan’s favourite pieces from his travels: glass Buddhas, glowing Vietnamese lanterns, and designer wallpaper from Sussex. The 9 bedrooms are airy, vastly comfortable affairs with French doors leading to terraces overlooking the pool. This long sliver of emerald water is sublime and quite the envy of the neighbours on the peninsula, where Heritage laws prohibit pools.
Don’t get too horizontal, however, as Luang Prabang, a Unesco-listed city, offers a huge amount; we loved its flower-filled streets with ornate temples at every turn. It’s unbelievably picturesque, with traditional Lao businesses sitting harmoniously alongside upmarket restaurants, and Buddhist culture pervading the spas, boutiques and galleries. And this is the perfect base to dip in and out of it all.
Highs
- The hotel feels secluded and intimate, due to its small size and personal service
- Blissfully away from the madding crowds, yet just minutes from Luang Prabang by private boat
- Romantic, spacious rooms with large balconies, outdoor daybeds and tubs-for-two in the bathrooms
- Fantastic food, especially the Laos set dinner
- Rising at dawn to watch the procession of monks receiving alms from kneeling locals (touristy but we enjoyed it) - then whizzing back on the boat for breakfast
Lows
- Some might find being out-of-town inconvenient, especially if you don't like boats and therefore need to get across the river by road (approx 15 mins)
- Steep, uneven steps up to the hotel are not suitable for the unfit
- Noise from the road and village behind the hotel is sometimes audible in the rooms
- The restaurant and bar close at 10pm, so those after a late drink will have to go into town (note that there's an 11.30pm curfew)
- As with many hotels in Luang Prabang, prices may appear a little high for Laos. But we felt it was worth the money
Best time to go
October and November heralds the end of the rainy season and sees the area at its best: more wildlife, verdant fields and forests and impressive waterfalls. November - February is the busiest time for tourists. Avoid the rainiest part of the rainy season in July and August and also the months of March and April when slash and burn farming means smoke-filled streets; also around this time the water festival can be a raucous time in Luang Prabang (although an amazing spectacle!).
Our top tips
Luang Prabang needs a few days minimum; we'd advise staying a week to see all the sights and spend a bit of time relaxing by the pool. Trips to the mountains are recommended to visit tribal hill villages and see the countryside. Bring (or better still buy when here) lots of sarongs, and loose, long-sleeved clothing for temple visits.