Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
Just metres from the buzzy shops and cafés of Calle Arfe, between the Gothic Cathedral and riverfront, this four-storey townhouse looks out to a tiny square lined by Seville's iconic orange trees. An open-sided metal staircase topped by a high skylight links the four floors at one end of the building, maxing both space and natural light. The ground floor serves as a vestibule, the first floor embraces a sitting room and small kitchen, while the second and third floors house the two bedrooms - one of which features a lovely shaded terrace facing the square and the city skyline. Grey-blue doors and windows and polished cement floors are juxtaposed by snazzily upholstered chairs, brightly-coloured cushions, paintings by local artists, framed posters and unusual mirrors. The feel is both stylish and homely.
It's a rare treat to have so much space in the city centre. Two couples or a family with teenage kids would be very comfortable here. And even though this is a self-catering house, the young, English-speaking owner Alejandra lives just around the corner and is always happy to share her insider’s knowledge of Seville. This part of the old town feels far less touristy than most - we felt like sophisticated Sevillanos living our best lives!
It's a rare treat to have so much space in the city centre. Two couples or a family with teenage kids would be very comfortable here. And even though this is a self-catering house, the young, English-speaking owner Alejandra lives just around the corner and is always happy to share her insider’s knowledge of Seville. This part of the old town feels far less touristy than most - we felt like sophisticated Sevillanos living our best lives!
Highs
- Having your own house plum in the city centre feels like a big Andalucian treat
- Perfect for self-catering with delicatessens and traditional food shops close by
- You’re close to masses of bars and restaurants yet this part of Seville feels far less touristy than the adjacent Santa Cruz area
- You get a lot more space for your buck than in many of Seville’s small hotels
- Personalised guest information and tips from owner Alejandra can lead you to the best of the city’s shops, sights and restaurants
Lows
- You can’t park outside but there are three public car parks close by, whilst taxis can drop you at your front door
- Seville gets madly hot in midsummer, though the house's A/C and exterior blinds help keep the heat at bay
- You're bang in the centre of a very lively city so expect some noise from the streets at night
- No children under 12
Best time to go
Unless you're a real sun bunny, the months to avoid are July and August, when temperatures regularly creep into the forties. If you can handle crowds there's nowhere quite like Seville during its annual Feria and Holy Week (April).
Any time out of season the chances of warm and sunny days are good, so book in late autumn, winter and early spring. The city is unforgettable in late March/early April when its citrus trees are in flower.
Any time out of season the chances of warm and sunny days are good, so book in late autumn, winter and early spring. The city is unforgettable in late March/early April when its citrus trees are in flower.
Our top tips
The Moroccan-style hammam baths of Aire de Sevilla, housed in a grand, 15th-century townhouse, are just a short stroll from the house. Along with the spa circuit and body, hand and foot massages, there's a wine bath and a rooftop infinity pool overlooking the cathedral.