There’s something immensely peaceful about staying on water, and this elegant houseboat has one of the most serene settings we’ve come across to date. Moored on Dal Lake just outside Srinagar in Indian Kashmir (increasingly stable and no longer off limits to tourists), it’s surrounded by lotus flowers and water lilies, lush meadows, and forested slopes that rise up towards the mighty snow-topped Himalayas.
Originally built in 1979 and now restored to its gleaming former glory, the boat has 5 guest rooms, all with cedar-panelled walls, richly coloured silks and modern ensuites. A speedboat is on hand to whizz you to and from the shore, and there’s a team of staff to take care of meals and excursions. Days revolve around gentle cruises along pristine backwaters, on traditional flat-bottomed boats known as shikaras; you’ll pass floating flower markets, stilted villages, hilltop forts, and kingfishers diving in and out of the water. The more adventurous can head into the mountains to visit nomadic Gujar tribes, whose way of life has barely changed in centuries. Return for drinks on Sukoon’s rooftop deck in the soft light of the setting sun, followed by multi-course feasts as the lake laps gently around you.
Highs
- An unrivalled position in a beautiful and unspoilt corner of northern India, with exceptional views all around
- A luxurious and private feel, yet it's excellent value
- Fascinating excursions by boat and foot, including the chance to camp overnight in a Himalayan valley
- Delicious food (rates are half-board), with influences from Kashmir, Kerala and further afield
- Easier to reach than you'd think - nearby Srinagar is served by regular flights from Delhi and Mumbai
Lows
- The situation in Kashmir has improved vastly, but restrictions remain. Do check the latest advice before you book, and expect tight security at Srinagar airport (no hand baggage on flights)
- Staff are gentle and friendly but need time to settle into their roles; you need a little patience
- The sound-proofing between rooms isn’t the best, and the electricity supply can be erratic
- Expect some hassle from hawkers on the lake, though it’s generally good-natured
- Full prepayment required before arrival
Best time to go
Kashmir is lovely for 9 months of the year. The blossoms of spring (March-May) are particularly beautiful, as are the clear, crisp days of autumn (September-November). June, July and August are hotter (25-35C) and bring stunning displays of lotus flowers. December to February see rain and snow, and Sukoon tends to close for maintenance. Bear in mind that early mornings, evenings and nights can be chilly at any time of year - the boat has effective heating and air-conditioning, but you may need to wrap up for excursions.
Our top tips
We recommend booking a stay of 4 or 5 nights, giving you time to unwind, explore and settle into the area’s laid-back pace; this will also allow you to camp in the hills if you want (May to September only). A few days here work brilliantly as a precursor to a visit to mountainous Ladakh, which can be reached by air from Srinagar.