Tea Bungalow
Fort Cochin, Cochin & the Backwaters, India
Reviewed by
Lesley Gillilan
An island-like peninsula between Lake Vembanad and the Arabian Sea, Fort Cochin was once the centre of Kerala’s international spice trade. Arabic and Oriental traders rubbed shoulders with Jewish merchants; Dutch, Portuguese and British colonists added to the mix; and all made their mark here. On a wide boulevard nudging the ocean, among white-washed churches and back-street synagogues, the Tea Bungalow is part of that old-world legacy.
Built in 1912 as the offices of a British company trading in coir and spices, it was bought by Brooke Bond in the 1950s and used as a staff guesthouse for visiting managers. By the time it was sold again, some 50 years later, it was empty and semi-derelict. A 2-year restoration followed, and in 2009 it re-emerged as a small heritage hotel. Under low red-tiled roofs there's a wide veranda, with original French doors opening onto a walled garden shaded with banana, avocado and jack-fruit trees. Inside, the décor nods towards colonial imperialism (there is a picture of the Queen on the stairwell), but the airy rooms, luxury bathrooms and the glittering tiled pool are new-born 21st century.
Built in 1912 as the offices of a British company trading in coir and spices, it was bought by Brooke Bond in the 1950s and used as a staff guesthouse for visiting managers. By the time it was sold again, some 50 years later, it was empty and semi-derelict. A 2-year restoration followed, and in 2009 it re-emerged as a small heritage hotel. Under low red-tiled roofs there's a wide veranda, with original French doors opening onto a walled garden shaded with banana, avocado and jack-fruit trees. Inside, the décor nods towards colonial imperialism (there is a picture of the Queen on the stairwell), but the airy rooms, luxury bathrooms and the glittering tiled pool are new-born 21st century.
Highs
- The graceful old building (more mansion than bungalow) has been beautifully restored; it's a wonderful collision of historic and contemporary India
- It's in a great location, in a quiet corner of the so-called Heritage Zone; it's an easy walk to the sea and a 10-minute tuk-tuk ride from Mattancherry’s Jewtown
- The accommodation is comfortable and stylish, particularly the large, lofty rooms in the original house
- The contemporary bathrooms are very smart: all marble, glass, pebble tiles and monsoon showers (some have little forests of tropical plants)
- There's a wide choice of dinner menus - both western and Indian - which will suit children and anyone wanting a change from curries
Lows
- Some of the rooms open directly onto the restaurant, which might compromise privacy
- For those who like to sleep in a dark room, the combination of thin blinds and outdoor night lights could irritate
- There are only a few loungers around the pool, so get there early if you want to spend an afternoon sunbathing
Best time to go
Peak season is November to January when the weather is cooler. The temperature starts to rise in February and continues thus throughout the summer. Prices are cheaper during the monsoon (June to October) but heavy rains are accompanied by a steamy climate and high humidity.
Our top tips
Pack some heavy-duty insect repellent and, if necessary, ask for your room to be sprayed at sundown - Cochin is mosquito central, and the little blighters get into the best of hotel rooms.