When you first arrive on Pantelleria, you might think you’ve made a mistake: this Italian island has no carefully groomed beaches, no orderly rows of sun umbrellas and no fishing villages boasting award-winning gelato. Until recently, it had virtually no tourists – other than in-the-know Italians and a handful of reclusive celebs. But that's beginning to change. Travellers are being lured by the strangely beautiful volcanic landscape: a sparsely populated scene of jagged mountains, crater lakes, steaming fumaroles and terraced dwarf vines, baked by a Mediterranean sun and swept by hot Saharan winds.
On the southwest coast, dotted amongst 12 hectares of fragrant pinewoods, olive groves and low-slung palms, are 7 ancient dammusi - traditional Arab-style dwellings unique to the island. Unassuming from the outside, the dome-roofed stone structures have been tastefully remodelled into characterful self-catering houses that are perfect for couples, family groups and friends (and unlike most of conservative Sicily, it's extremely gay friendly). Bask on your sunny terrace, explore picturesque coves by moped or boat, sample local tavernas and sip Passito wine as the sun sets over Neolithic burial domes. We’ve already fallen for the island's exotic charm and can’t wait to visit in person.
On the southwest coast, dotted amongst 12 hectares of fragrant pinewoods, olive groves and low-slung palms, are 7 ancient dammusi - traditional Arab-style dwellings unique to the island. Unassuming from the outside, the dome-roofed stone structures have been tastefully remodelled into characterful self-catering houses that are perfect for couples, family groups and friends (and unlike most of conservative Sicily, it's extremely gay friendly). Bask on your sunny terrace, explore picturesque coves by moped or boat, sample local tavernas and sip Passito wine as the sun sets over Neolithic burial domes. We’ve already fallen for the island's exotic charm and can’t wait to visit in person.
Highs
- Fantastic value
- A remote Sicilian island with cool Arabic influences and none of the trappings of mass tourism
- Plenty of privacy and space to relax; each dammusi is surrounded by beautiful Mediterranean flora
- Fully equipped kitchens, alfresco dining terraces, and a trattoria 20 mins' walk away
- Sitting on your terrace as the sun sets over Tunisia, revealing an incredible display of stars
Lows
- Only the biggest house has a swimming pool and Pantelleria has no beaches; swimming is off the rocky coast or in a volcanic lake
- Limited flights, especially off season, but the beautiful uncrowded landscapes are worth the effort
- You’ll need a car to get here and around; the estate is fairly remote
- Summer can be very hot and winds are strong year-round
- A 3-night minimum stay and rates don't include an end-of-stay clean. Note you'll need to pay a security deposit in Cash on arrival
Best time to go
Pantelleria has a Mediterranean climate buffeted by year-round winds. Summer (June-September) is hot with clear skies and little chance of rain. Winter is cooler and wetter. Tenuta Borgia is closed Jan-Feb. The shoulder seasons are ideal: come in spring (March-May) or autumn (October) for hiking, or if you'd like to watch grape-harvesting in action, visit in September.
Our top tips
Pantelleria is famous for Passito wine, recognised by Unesco for its ancient cultivation methods. The wind-resistant North African 'Zibibbo' grapes are partially dried in the sun before fermentation, giving them a honey-sweet citrus aroma. You'll see terraces of vines stretching across the valleys and, unlike many of Italy’s winemakers, vineyards on Pantelleria welcome visitors. Tastings are a must - best paired with 'baci Panteschi: flower-shaped pastries with ricotta cheese dipped in a thin batter.