The Fisherman's House
Sveti Klement island, nr Hvar, Dalmatian Coast, Croatia
Reviewed by
Jane Foster
At the quayside in Hvar Town, lined with flashy yachts and palm trees, you'll be met by Thorkild in an inflatable speedboat. He'll whisk you away from the tourist melee, across the deep sapphire-blue Adriatic, spray splashing from the waves. After an exhilarating 20-minute journey, disembark in Vlaka Bay, with its serene turquoise waters and pebble beach, walk through a glade of towering Aleppo pines, and you've arrived.
The Matejević family opened this welcoming pension (guesthouse) in 1964. The third generation - Perina Matejević and Thorkild, her Danish husband - are now in charge, with children, cats and a dog adding a homely atmosphere. Guests congregate on the shaded restaurant terrace, where wooden tables with fisherman's lamps are surrounded by pink hydrangeas, to feast on fresh seafood and homemade wine. Accommodation is in 6 basic but comfortable rooms, each with a private terrace. While you're here you'll realign with the elements: swimming in the sea before breakfast, exploring the paths that criss-cross the islet, snoozing in a hammock. Although there's no year-round population, locals still tend vineyards and olive groves, and archaeological excavations in Soline Bay show the Romans had summer villas here some 2000 years ago. A time-tested hideaway.
The Matejević family opened this welcoming pension (guesthouse) in 1964. The third generation - Perina Matejević and Thorkild, her Danish husband - are now in charge, with children, cats and a dog adding a homely atmosphere. Guests congregate on the shaded restaurant terrace, where wooden tables with fisherman's lamps are surrounded by pink hydrangeas, to feast on fresh seafood and homemade wine. Accommodation is in 6 basic but comfortable rooms, each with a private terrace. While you're here you'll realign with the elements: swimming in the sea before breakfast, exploring the paths that criss-cross the islet, snoozing in a hammock. Although there's no year-round population, locals still tend vineyards and olive groves, and archaeological excavations in Soline Bay show the Romans had summer villas here some 2000 years ago. A time-tested hideaway.
Highs
- A peaceful location at the quiet end of Sveti Klement island, immersed in nature and surrounded by turquoise sea
- Superb meals using local seasonal produce and the owners' olive oil and wine; generous rates are half-board
- A fantastic adventure for families - no traffic so kids can basically run wild
- Next to the guesthouse is a pebble beach with sunbeds and sea kayaks, and paths lead through lush Mediterranean vegetation to other coves with crystal-clear water
- Perina's driftwood sculptures and colourful paintings add a lovely arty touch
Lows
- Rooms and bathrooms are basic, and some are rather small, but they're perfectly comfortable
- Meals are served communally and generally the dinner menu is set, though you can eat privately a la carte if you prefer
- The islet location means you're cut off from glamorous Hvar - no ritzy nightlife, but perfect for star-gazing
- No local shops - the nearest is a tiny general store 5km away where you can buy essentials; bottled water is expensive at the guesthouse
- Payment at the hotel by cash only, and cancellations within 60 days of stay incur a hefty charge
Best time to go
Ideally, try to come here in either June or September, when it's warm and sunny (but not sweltering hot), the sea just right for swimming and the island not too crowded. Note that trendy Hvar Town does get very very busy in July and August and the overflow reaches as far as Sveti Klement. May and October can also be nice, but the weather somewhat unstable, with occasional rain, and the taxi-boats are infrequent.
Our top tips
Pack a copy of The Venetian Empire: A Sea Voyage by Jan Morris, which explains Venice's historic role in Dalmatia, with several direct references to Hvar. A Croatian-English dictionary would be fun too.