The Pakleni Island Hideaway
Sveti Klement island, nr Hvar, Dalmatian Coast, Croatia
Reviewed by
Jane Foster
This haven of tranquillity lies an exhilarating 15-minute motorboat ride from Hvar, on the far end of Sveti Klement, the largest of the uninhabited Pakleni islets. From the bay, it's a five-minute hike up a winding path, through bushes of pink and white flowering heather, to the house. For generations the Novak family have kept their bee hives here through winter. In 2018, they began building a hideaway, which they designed themselves – the result is a discreet summer abode, with wooden window shutters and a terracotta roof, immersed in nature. It's self-sufficient, with solar panels and its own water supply.
The main living space combines a kitchen area, a dining table, and a lounge with a fireplace. Three double doors open onto a terrace, shaded by white triangular awnings, like sails. Beyond, lies a lovely semi-wild garden, with flowering shrubs, olive and fig trees, Dalmatian oaks hung with hammocks, and giant black bean-bags. Footpaths lead to several secluded bays, popular with yachters, while other activities include sightseeing in Hvar and water-sports. With four double rooms, this is a superb eco-friendly retreat for a family with older kids or group of friends.
The main living space combines a kitchen area, a dining table, and a lounge with a fireplace. Three double doors open onto a terrace, shaded by white triangular awnings, like sails. Beyond, lies a lovely semi-wild garden, with flowering shrubs, olive and fig trees, Dalmatian oaks hung with hammocks, and giant black bean-bags. Footpaths lead to several secluded bays, popular with yachters, while other activities include sightseeing in Hvar and water-sports. With four double rooms, this is a superb eco-friendly retreat for a family with older kids or group of friends.
Highs
- A blissfully peaceful location, with two nearby beaches on the north and south coasts
- We loved the breezy garden with its naturally-shaded sun-beds, beanbags, swing chair and tables
- And the slick minimalist interiors – light, airy and spacious, with clean lines and no clutter
- You're near trendy Hvar Town, with its noble stone buildings, excellent restaurants and buzzing nightlife
- Nearby activities include sea-kayaking, SUP, sailing, scuba diving, cycling and wine tasting
Lows
- The house is at the far end of a semi-inhabited islet, so you will be very isolated
- No shops nearby, so plan meals in advance
- Only arrival and departure boat drives are included in the rates. All other drives are charged extra
- No swimming pool, and the coast here is generally rocky rather than sandy – but the sea is crystal clear!
- No credit cards accepted and a EUR500 security deposit required
Best time to go
The height of summer is when you'll be able to make the most of blissful Mediterranean outdoor living. Hvar does get very busy in July and August – you'll be far enough away not to realise, though you'll need to reserve tables if you want to dine in town. The sea is warm enough to swim from June through September, and local restaurants, attractions and water-sports providers work from May through October. The villa is closed in winter.
Our top tips
Sveti Klement has two very informal eateries, The Fishermans House and Dionis, both a short boat ride away (or 20 mins' walk). A one-hour walk away lies Palmizana, a restaurant in an open-air art gallery. Alternatively, take a boat to Hvar Town, packed with pizzerias, sushi bars and up-market seafood restaurants.