Once upon a time, hippies came to Sri Lanka to tune in and drop out on its gorgeous golden shores. The beaches are as much of a draw as ever, but these days, hosts of hotels vie for attention with smart flatscreens and all sorts of fancy accoutrements. Not so here; at The Frangipani Tree you won't even find a TV in your room. The magic of this hotel is simply its setting - the raging waves of the Indian Ocean crash just meters from the Hawksbill, Leatherback and Olive Ridley suites - named after the turtles who head back to this beach every year to lay their eggs.
The keen young team urge you to switch off your phone, kick off your shoes and pick up a book to lounge by the pool. If you need more activity you can do some laps or play a game of tennis, but basically, it's all about downtime. Add to this casual but tasty dining and beautifully spare interiors courtesy of Bawa protegé Channa Daswatte, and it's no surprise that tuning in and dropping out is fashionable once again.
Highs
- The clean, minimalist lines and polished concrete show Geoffrey Bawa's influence, and make a refreshing change from Galle's heritage hotels
- You can see the world-famous stilt fishermen from the beach and spot sea turtles bobbing up and down in the sea
- The perfect place to escape and relax - beautiful bathrooms and minimal tech
- A long, thin pool; great for those who actually want to swim on holiday
- Throughout our stay, the friendly service from all the staff was excellent
Lows
- Recent guest feedback has been well below the normal standard, citing poor service and maintenance; but the hotel assures us they are improving as they emerge from the covid and political troubles
- Some may find it a little pricey given the lack of mod cons, but for others, that's the attraction
- No in-room fridges, but a cold drink will arrive rapidly if you order one
- You'll need to take a tuk-tuk if you want to dine out
Best time to go
Peak season is November - March and this is when Sri Lanka is traditionally buzzing. We stayed in October and it was very quiet - the off season is alarmingly quiet across the country. However, rates are lower and you'll get the full attention of the staff, although the weather can be hit or miss.
Our top tips
At dusk, the local swifts swarm and nest in the palms. Grab a lounger on the grassy bank at 6pm and watch as thousands gather in the warm night air. By 6.30pm every single one has settled in the palms along the beachfront. Extraordinary!
Location
The Frangipani Tree is situated in Thalpe, on Sri Lanka's southwest coast. It is 8km south of Galle and around 2 hours' drive south of Colombo.
By Air:
Colombo Bandaranaike Airport (130km) is the closest international airport.
From the Airport
You can request an airport transfer through the hotel or take the (slower) coastal train to Galle, followed by a local taxi. Alternatively there is a Sri Lankan Airlines air taxi service to Koggala Lake, which is 10 minutes from the hotel. The hotel can advise you and make booking arrangements.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Sri Lanka and getting around.
Airports:
- Colombo Bandaranaike 130.0 km CMB
Other:
- Beach 0.1 km
- Shops 2.0 km
- Restaurant 1.0 km