Reviewed by
Maia Tarrant
If your idea of a perfect holiday includes semi-tropical sunshine, fresh sea air and jaw-droppingly scenic hiking, then look no further. La Palma is one of the steepest and greenest of the Canary Islands: easily accessible, but almost totally unspoiled. Dramatic peaks shrouded in lush prehistoric forest dominate the north, while to the south a chain of volcanic craters rise up from a haunting black desert-scape. And right in the centre - in the hillside village of El Paso - this beautifully converted schoolhouse is ideally placed for exploring it all.
Once the village music school, this historic blue-and-white building has a pleasing mix of original features and contemporary elements. Stay in one of the 4 individually styled bedrooms or book the whole house for a smart group getaway. High-spec bathrooms and elegant 4-poster beds complement beamed ceilings, antique tiled floors and wooden shutters; street art, rock-n-roll memorabilia and a fab vinyl collection add cool character (a nod to both the owner's illustrious career in the industry and the building's musical past). We spent mornings exploring the island’s many hiking trails and stunning black beaches, blissful afternoons by the heated pool (the air is cooler up here at 700m altitude), and evenings mooching around the tapas bars and pastel-coloured boutiques of El Paso and nearby Los Llanos. Perfection.
Once the village music school, this historic blue-and-white building has a pleasing mix of original features and contemporary elements. Stay in one of the 4 individually styled bedrooms or book the whole house for a smart group getaway. High-spec bathrooms and elegant 4-poster beds complement beamed ceilings, antique tiled floors and wooden shutters; street art, rock-n-roll memorabilia and a fab vinyl collection add cool character (a nod to both the owner's illustrious career in the industry and the building's musical past). We spent mornings exploring the island’s many hiking trails and stunning black beaches, blissful afternoons by the heated pool (the air is cooler up here at 700m altitude), and evenings mooching around the tapas bars and pastel-coloured boutiques of El Paso and nearby Los Llanos. Perfection.
Highs
- Renting the whole house is perfect for an adventurous family, or for 2-3 couples travelling together (each bedroom has an ensuite)
- The 4th bedroom is a spacious separate apartment at the back - offering a bit more privacy
- The owners have plenty of local knowledge which they are happy to share
- It's very affordable, especially given the high quality fittings and artful TLC that have been lavished on it
- We particularly loved the heated pool and the peaceful tropical gardens
Lows
- This is a sociable place, with a shared kitchen, lounge and pool - be prepared to get to know your fellow guests
- There are no in-house staff so you're left to your own devices, but your hosts drop by regularly
- Lava flows from the 2021 eruption of Cumbre Vieja reach quite close to the house (about 10 mins' drive) - but are spectacular to visit
- You'll need a car to explore the island, and La Palma's steep, winding roads are not for the faint-hearted
- The restaurants and shops of El Paso are a short drive or 15-minute walk away - and there's not a huge choice (Los Llanos has more)
Best time to go
La Palma is a great year-round destination. Winter has lovely daytime temperatures of 15-25C at sea level, but it can get a tad chilly at night, and quite cold up in the mountains. Summers are very hot (30-40C), though sea breezes keep the beaches cool and the mountain forests are beautifully shady.
Our top tips
Challenge yourself to a 18km, full-day hike! Ruta de los Volcanes crosses some of the island's most stunning scenery. You can park your car at the Refugio del Pilar, then take a taxi back.