Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
With its rolling olive groves, sleepy hamlets and cypress-cloaked valleys dropping to sheltered beaches, the Apokoronas region of north Crete has long been popular with British holiday-makers and expats. There's no shortage of places to rent; but this one really raises the bar.
The 3 semi-independent suites - sometimes available individually, sometimes only as a whole - have been immaculately converted from an 18th-century olive press and outhouses. Two of them are split-level and can sleep 2-4; the third is a spacious double/triple. Their rustic-chic interiors wouldn't look out of place in Elle Decor, while the (shared) gardens and pool are tranquil and truly idyllic. Owner Despina Kotsifaki, who runs a homeware boutique in nearby Chania, has invested all her spare time and money restoring the ancient vaults and pale stone walls, fitting gleaming glass doors and polished wetrooms, and filling them all with gorgeous pastel furniture and Provence-style objets d'art. In the courtyard are vibrant scatter cushions, giant table-top lanterns and bursts of blood-red geraniums. The result is Cretan-farmhouse-meets-Conran-showroom: a true one-off.
The 3 semi-independent suites - sometimes available individually, sometimes only as a whole - have been immaculately converted from an 18th-century olive press and outhouses. Two of them are split-level and can sleep 2-4; the third is a spacious double/triple. Their rustic-chic interiors wouldn't look out of place in Elle Decor, while the (shared) gardens and pool are tranquil and truly idyllic. Owner Despina Kotsifaki, who runs a homeware boutique in nearby Chania, has invested all her spare time and money restoring the ancient vaults and pale stone walls, fitting gleaming glass doors and polished wetrooms, and filling them all with gorgeous pastel furniture and Provence-style objets d'art. In the courtyard are vibrant scatter cushions, giant table-top lanterns and bursts of blood-red geraniums. The result is Cretan-farmhouse-meets-Conran-showroom: a true one-off.
Highs
- We loved the secret walled garden, with colourful flowerbeds, olive and fruit tress, starlit evenings punctuated by the hoot of owls
- The lovely (shared) pool is almost chlorine-free, so won't harm your kids' skin even if they spend all day in it
- Bedrooms are cool in every sense: thick stone walls (plus A/C if you need a top-up) and chic country-house furnishings with clever gizmos
- A Cretan breakfast can be served in secluded spots around the garden, while the nearby village of Gavalohori has some lovely tavernas
- The friendly staff provide a concierge service: they can help organise day trips, book restaurants and arrange your every whim - just ask!
Lows
- Individual suites are normally available in low and mid seasons only
- If you're planning to self-cater, be aware that there's only one small communal kitchen, so you'll have to fit around other guests
- You're 5km from the coast, and the closest beaches aren't the best in Crete (but a little further are some fab ones)
- Some guests have mentioned low-flying planes from the US base, but we did not hear any during our week there
Best time to go
Crete is best visited in May-June or September: days are hot but not uncomfortably so, the sea (and pool) are warm enough for swimming, the Apokoronas landscape is still lush and the White Mountains snow-capped until mid June. But if you are coming in July or August, The Olive Press will do its best to keep you cool (shady gardens, thick walls, A/C) and tucked away from the crowds (there are no hotels in Agios Pavlos or Gavalohori, and only a couple of other villas). April and early October are also a possibility, but the villa might be a bit chilly (only wall-mounted heating units) and the indoor living spaces are not as lovely as the gardens.